Jon Elson" wrote in message
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|
|
| Ignoramus25901 wrote:
|
| I own a few Harris AM-7223 amplifiers (military surplus). I want to
| sell them, maybe will keep one. They are all supposed to be in a
| working condition. They will sell much better if they have power
| cords. They require special power cables, with a round plug. The power
| cord receptable on the unit is round and has a few pins sticking
| out. I am looking for the most practical way of making a jury-rigged
| power cable for this unit at low cost. I already know which pin is
| ground, which is neutral, and which is hot. The question is, what is
| the most practical way of connecting a power cable.
|
|
| These are probably "cannon" connectors, now sold under the Amphenol
| brand. They were totally ubiquitous on military gear from the 40's
| through the
| 60's. Aircraft stuff started to switch to Bendix twist-lock connectors
| then,
| but the naval stuff may still be using the Cannon style. You can look
| them up
| in the Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. catalogs. Ther should be a MS3106 (I
| think that's
| the mil designation for that entire connector line) series number for
| the connector
| stamped on the body. It would be something like 14S-1P, which
| identifies the
| shell size (14) the pin orientation (S), the contact pattern (1) and the
| sex, male in
| the plug (P) sense. So, you;'d want a 14S-1S connector to mate with it.
| There is,
| I think, a plastic shell version that is intercompatible with these, but
| much cheaper.
| It doesn't have the mil designation, as it is not mil spec, but should
| work otherwise
|
| Jon

I hesitated to try and recall any of the numbers and their systems, but
they are more or less a standard configuration as mentioned above. What
usually makes the connector expensive is the environment it's made for.
Obviously high temp, high vibe with hydraulic fluid will cost you more,
including the necessary backshells and clamps. You can get plastic bodies
that work fine for your application, and when you're doing your research
you'll find that you likely need a backshell or wire support just behind the
clamp to keep the wires from fatiguing and breaking. I also should offer a
small warning here about the contacts. You can find solder contacts, crimp
contacts, and some connectors will have fixed contacts and some with
removable. The solder connectors will likely be more expensive, and the
replaceable contact connectors cheaper, but the tooling for the contacts
(the contact also depends on the kind of wire and gauge you'll be putting
in) are more expensive. For several connectors, it might be worth the
investment of the tooling. All depends on you. Soldered connectors are far
more likely to break the wires than crimped ones, especially if there's not
a backshell. If you decide to go with the soldered connectors, get with me
off line and I'll give you some pointers to keep the wire from breaking so
soon.
Then again you just might have to run with whatever you can find!