SawDust wrote in
:

Thank You Patriarch.

Since you have used the Watco products more than I have, maybe you
might know the answer; If I continue to apply the dark walnut, since
there is a dye component, will the wood "red oak" continue to get
darker with subsequent applications.

For example: If I did one application of the watco. Let it dry.
Then filled the grain with tinted filler, sanded etc. Then start
applying more of the finish. Will the unfilled wood continue to get
darker.? My test piece "after one application" was just too light.
So I'm wondering if I can build the color...

Pat

Well, Rule #1 is experiment, on wood that you're using, with the techniques
as you understand them. That's better than some remote expert(1)
pontificating. And rule #1 didn't originate with me, by the way, although
I've tried to adopt it.

If what you want is the dye component, then get a dye. The varnish oil (2)
is a finish, and the dye is along for the ride. The varnish oil is a
challenge in red oak, since the structure of the wood encourages absorption
and weeping, as the oil cures. It can be made to work, but is, at the same
time, an annoyance. And varnish oil is popular not only for the nice feel
it leaves, but also because it is so simple to use. Subsequent
applications do not absorb color as deeply, because the cell structure has
oil curing from the earlier applications, partially blocking the dye.

The absorption characteristic of red oak can/will likely make dying
interesting also, so have plenty of practice pieces ready. An alcohol
carrier, by itself, tones _extremely_ quickly, and can tend towards a
blotchy coloration. Fortunately, alcohol is also the solvent for shellac,
which can conteract the blotchies. A light base coat of 1lb blonde
shellac, followed by dye-amended shellac, can be padded on, and with proper
care, you have your color coats. It's a surface film finish, so it feels
different than an oil, but, hand rubbed with a good clear wax and 0000
synthetic steel wool, you get a delightful look. Used by anyone with
roots/ties/connections/respect for the College of the Redwoods.

Now about me. I've been doing this enthusiasticly for less than 5 years,
as a hobby, and therapy from the corporate world. There are many more
expert in finishing technique than I. Some of them, no longer with us in
this life, have much of their shared wisdom archived, thanks to Google, and
prior to that, Dejanews. When you search, pay careful attention to one
gentle fellow, Paul Radonivic, or Paully Rad, and enjoy his expertise.

I work in red oak, because that's what my wife likes, it's local, and it
matches much of the commercial furniture we have accumulated over 30+
years. And, since we often learn most completely from our mistakes, I've
learned more than a little bit on how not to work red oak. Enjoy your
learning path.

Patriarch

(1) One definition of an expert: x = an unknown quantity. spurt = a drip
under pressure. Hence expert = unknown drip under pressure. Source
unknown, but not me.

(2) varnish oil: linseed, tung or similar oils, with a modest varnish
component. Watco is one of many. Homebrews are/were plentiful. See
articles from real experts, ie: Flexner, Jewitt, et al.