Jud McCranie wrote in message . ..
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 18:40:39 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

That depends. When you open a faucet, does the pressure drop to 42 psi,
causing the pump to kick on? Or is 44 psi as low as it gets?

I should have been clearer. I'm using the inline gauge for the water
pressure and a tire gauge for the air pressure. They may be a little
off.

When the tank was empty (or almost), I closed all of the valves.
There is one between the tank and the house but not between the tank
and the pump. I put my tire pump on it and got it up to 11 PSI. Then
I turned on the pump. Then the air pressure of the air at the top was
44 PSI. The pump cuts on when the water pressure gets down to 42 PSI
and cuts off at 57-58 PSI.

Since then, I've looked at the air pressure as the water is used until
the pump cuts on. The air pressure was 46PSI (was 44 before) and
dropped to 41-42, while the water pressure dropped to 42 PSI and the
pump cut on.

---
Replace you know what by j to email

1. A standard setting on/off is 20psi difference. 20/40 (not
common), 30/50 (very common), 40/60 which you have and is also common.
60 psi is generally regarded as the maximum recommended pressure for
residences as higher pressures causes undue wear and tear on fixturs.

2. I don't understand why you could only get 11 psi in the empty
tank. It will operate on that amount but the pump run time will be
far off of optimum, running for shorter times and starting oftener.
Starting is the hardest on the pump. The pump pre-charge just
adjusts the system for best run time.

3. The guage reading you are getting are within the tolerances of
whatever you are using. Best to use only one guage and adjust
everything with it.

I don't want to fly on false colors here. I learned this as a shade
tree operation when I became the default maintenance man on our
community pump.
Definitely not an expert.

Harry K