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#1
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Water pump on/off every 3 seconds
We have a deep well with a tank in the garage. If the water is
running, the pump runs for about 1 second then cuts off for about 2 seconds, and repeats. Is this normal? Recently it seems that if any water is running, the pressure elsewhere is a lot lower than it used to be. Is there a problem with the water system, and can we fix it? --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#2
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It sounds like your tank is water logged. You need an air head at the top of
the tank, this air compresses and evens out the pressure as the on/off cycles through. One solution is to drain the tank then pump up the tank to 20-30 pounds, then turn the water pump back on and see if this solves it. Another thing to consider is a holding tank with a bladder then this shouldn't happen.. Good luck, Rich "Jud McCranie" wrote in message ... We have a deep well with a tank in the garage. If the water is running, the pump runs for about 1 second then cuts off for about 2 seconds, and repeats. Is this normal? Recently it seems that if any water is running, the pressure elsewhere is a lot lower than it used to be. Is there a problem with the water system, and can we fix it? --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#3
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Another thing to consider is a holding tank with a bladder then this
shouldn't happen.. scratch that. . . if they make bladder tanks that big it would cost him a fortune. just drain your tank then restart the pump and see what happens. that should remedy the on & off problem. may also fix the low pressure if not, there is a pressure switch on the tank w/ a guage, under the cover of the sw, there are 2 adjusting screws, 1 increases the CUT IN & CUT OUT PRESSURE & #2 ONLY ADJUSTS CUT OFF . there will be a diagram under the cover w/ instructions. |
#4
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#5
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041108 2131 - Jud McCranie posted:
On 09 Nov 2004 00:49:00 GMT, (Playintennis5274) wrote: Another thing to consider is a holding tank with a bladder then this shouldn't happen.. scratch that. . . if they make bladder tanks that big it would cost him a fortune. just drain your tank then restart the pump and see what happens. OK, it looks like the only way to drain the tank is to open a valve at the top of the tank which is similar to a tire stem and open a faucet out at the pump. I've got that going. (dumb) Question: do I put the valve back in and close it off before I turn the pump back on, or should I fill the tank with water and then put the valve back in? Once the tank is emptied, put all the fittings back in and sealed properly with some thread compound and then, as already suggested, turn the pump back on and let the tank refill. The system should put some water into the tank along with a volume of air. Some say about half air and half water, and sometimes 2/3 water and 1/3 air. The air should be at the top. Usually you can tell by the sweat level on the outside of the tank. See that the sweat is about halfway up the tank when the pump has shut off. If this doesn't happen, then redrain the tank and use the other suggestion of putting some air pressure into the tank, 20 to 30 pounds was suggested, and then turn the pump back on again and fill the tank until the pump shuts off. Then check the sweat level again. There has to be a volume of air in the top of the tank for the system to work properly. As already noted, your system has become waterlogged -- that is, the tank is full of water and no air pocket. |
#6
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On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 03:02:18 GMT, indago
wrote: Once the tank is emptied, put all the fittings back in and sealed properly with some thread compound and then, as already suggested, turn the pump back on and let the tank refill. ... Thanks, it is working now. When it was cycling every 2 or 3 seconds, the pressure gauge was dropping very low very quickly and then going back up very quickly when the pump kicked on. The needle was bouncing around like mad. Now it cuts on when it gets down to 42 PSI and cuts off at about 56 PSI, and it moves gradually and takes several seconds to do it. I assume that 42/56 PSI settings are OK. Tanks :-) to everyone who replied. You're the greatest! --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#7
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"Jud McCranie" wrote in message ... On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 03:02:18 GMT, indago wrote: Once the tank is emptied, put all the fittings back in and sealed properly with some thread compound and then, as already suggested, turn the pump back on and let the tank refill. ... Thanks, it is working now. When it was cycling every 2 or 3 seconds, the pressure gauge was dropping very low very quickly and then going back up very quickly when the pump kicked on. The needle was bouncing around like mad. Now it cuts on when it gets down to 42 PSI and cuts off at about 56 PSI, and it moves gradually and takes several seconds to do it. I assume that 42/56 PSI settings are OK. Tanks :-) to everyone who replied. You're the greatest! Moment read the OP, thought of loss of the air cushion in the system. i.e. System was waterlogged. Don't know about yours but I remember some pumps (this was mainly on shallow well systems) that had a "Snifter Valve"; the purpose of which was to sniff in a little bit of air every time the pump ran to maintain the air reserve which is absolutely essential. Never had a system with a bladder inside the tank but understand if that ruptures it can also be a problem. Typical settings here for domestic were cut in at 20 lbs. cut out at 40lbs. The pressure switch that runs the pump usually being adjustable. To find out how read the instructions or figure it out from the switch which may be labelled. |
#8
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Jud McCranie wrote in message . ..
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 03:02:18 GMT, indago wrote: Once the tank is emptied, put all the fittings back in and sealed properly with some thread compound and then, as already suggested, turn the pump back on and let the tank refill. ... Thanks, it is working now. When it was cycling every 2 or 3 seconds, the pressure gauge was dropping very low very quickly and then going back up very quickly when the pump kicked on. The needle was bouncing around like mad. Now it cuts on when it gets down to 42 PSI and cuts off at about 56 PSI, and it moves gradually and takes several seconds to do it. I assume that 42/56 PSI settings are OK. Tanks :-) to everyone who replied. You're the greatest! --- Replace you know what by j to email Now that you have had a batch of wrong, not to say bad, information, here is the correct way. 1. You have a bladder tank as shown by the 'tire valve' on the top. The bladder has burst thus loosing your air bubble. 2. Proper way to drain and pre-charge the tank. a. Shut pump off. b. Open drain valve c. Open a faucet somewhere in the system to allow air into the tank. d. When empty close all open valves. e. Pump air into the tank until you have about 2 PSI -BELOW- the cut-in pressure, i.e., if pump starts at 30psi, you want 27-28 psi in the tank. f. Restart pump. g. Go around and open all faucets to release trapped air in the pipes. You really should replace the tank - they aren't that expensive. There will be stagnant water trapped by the blown bladder that could be mixing with your supply. Harry K |
#9
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#11
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#12
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 16:17:40 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: e. Pump air into the tank until you have about 2 PSI -BELOW- the cut-in pressure, i.e., if pump starts at 30psi, you want 27-28 psi in the tank. I just repeated the process (in daylight this time) except that I pumped air into the tank. I was only able to get 11 PSI in the tank before putting water back in, but that should be better than what I did last night, and it will hold until we can do something about the tank. Of course, putting water back in compresses the air in the tank, and now it is at 44 PSI. The pump cuts on at 42 PSI and off at 57-58 PSI. Are those pressures OK? That depends. When you open a faucet, does the pressure drop to 42 psi, causing the pump to kick on? Or is 44 psi as low as it gets? If 44 psi is as low as it gets, you need to either (a) let some air out of the tank, or (b) raise the cut-on setting to 45 or 46 psi. Otherwise, with the cut-on pressure set below the minimum pressure in the tank, the pump won't ever come on. Or if you're asking if on at 42 / off at 58 is an OK combination of settings, sure. As long as you're happy with it. The "proper" on/off settings are a function of the capability of the pump, and your personal preference. |
#13
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
On 9 Nov 2004 05:55:40 -0800, (Harry K) wrote: 1. You have a bladder tank as shown by the 'tire valve' on the top. The bladder has burst thus loosing your air bubble. .... The tank is a Stay-rite Con-Aire "controlled air water tank" (I couldn't get the model number), so I'm assuming that it means that it is a bladder type. Sure sounds like it. I did all of the steps you said, except pump up the air. (I do have a tire pump so I could do it, I just didn't know to last night.) Now it is working like it was a few days ago, so the immediate problem is solved. However, we bought this house 2+ years ago, so it may have already had the problem. We always thought the water pressure was low. Since it has a burst bubble, this problem will happen again, if we don't replace it, right? Yes, it will. When you install the new tank, put a tire pressure gauge on the air fitting to measure the precharge pressure. Then let air out, or pump more in, as needed, to adjust the pressure to about 2 psi below the cut-on pressure setting on your pump control. |
#14
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#15
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Jud McCranie wrote in message . ..
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 18:40:39 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: That depends. When you open a faucet, does the pressure drop to 42 psi, causing the pump to kick on? Or is 44 psi as low as it gets? I should have been clearer. I'm using the inline gauge for the water pressure and a tire gauge for the air pressure. They may be a little off. When the tank was empty (or almost), I closed all of the valves. There is one between the tank and the house but not between the tank and the pump. I put my tire pump on it and got it up to 11 PSI. Then I turned on the pump. Then the air pressure of the air at the top was 44 PSI. The pump cuts on when the water pressure gets down to 42 PSI and cuts off at 57-58 PSI. Since then, I've looked at the air pressure as the water is used until the pump cuts on. The air pressure was 46PSI (was 44 before) and dropped to 41-42, while the water pressure dropped to 42 PSI and the pump cut on. --- Replace you know what by j to email 1. A standard setting on/off is 20psi difference. 20/40 (not common), 30/50 (very common), 40/60 which you have and is also common. 60 psi is generally regarded as the maximum recommended pressure for residences as higher pressures causes undue wear and tear on fixturs. 2. I don't understand why you could only get 11 psi in the empty tank. It will operate on that amount but the pump run time will be far off of optimum, running for shorter times and starting oftener. Starting is the hardest on the pump. The pump pre-charge just adjusts the system for best run time. 3. The guage reading you are getting are within the tolerances of whatever you are using. Best to use only one guage and adjust everything with it. I don't want to fly on false colors here. I learned this as a shade tree operation when I became the default maintenance man on our community pump. Definitely not an expert. Harry K |
#16
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#17
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On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 23:40:18 -0500, Jud McCranie
wrote: With water in the tank, the air pressure is 46 PSI. I suppose it should be higher, right? What should the air pressure be? I could try pumping it up some more now that there is water in the tank. --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#18
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Jud McCranie wrote in message . ..
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 23:40:18 -0500, Jud McCranie wrote: With water in the tank, the air pressure is 46 PSI. I suppose it should be higher, right? What should the air pressure be? I could try pumping it up some more now that there is water in the tank. --- Replace you know what by j to email Replying to the previous two posts: Your pressures with water in the tank are correct. The pressure switch doesn't care a wit what your pre-charge is, it turns on and off when the tank reaches the settings. Yes, it is a common misunderstanding about the pre-charge, i.e., if I have 11 psi empty and pump shuts off at a 60 psi setting shouldn't I have 71 psi on the guage? No. Re the low pressure in the shower: Not tank related I don't think. Sounds like you have a blockage in pipes or the fixtures. I suspect a partially clogged shower head. Not unusual for debris to be dislodged when working on a water system. Usually the debris will clog an aerator nozzle or shower head if not both. Pre-charge can only be set with the pump off and the tank empty to get it right. Then set for 2 psi below cut-in. You are probably right that you are trying pressurize the entire plumbing system. It might help if you have a whole house shut off valve in the system, probably on the tank outlet, shut that before pressurizing. The pipes from the tank to the pump SHOULD be full of water so no shut off is needed. I say "should" because wierd conditions do exist. Harry K |
#19
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On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 18:44:47 GMT, Doug Miller wrote:
When you install the new tank, put a tire pressure gauge on the air fitting to measure the precharge pressure. Then let air out, or pump more in, as needed, to adjust the pressure to about 2 psi below the cut-on pressure setting on your pump control. Might I suggest to the OP the purchase of a powered air pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter in your vehicle. Hand pumping a pressure tank is a time-consuming and fatiguing process - at least for one the size I have (35 gal). I used a little portable battery powered air pump that I bought to top off the vehicle tires from time to time, but one that plugs into your vehicle would work just as well so long as you can get your vehicle close enough. They are relatively inexpensive - IIRC I've seen them for about $20. I guess if you know your cut-on pressure, you could take the tank to the gas station and put air in it there to obtain the correct pressure. Bit of a pain to disconnect/reconnect and load/unload though. If you're replacing your tank, you could stop on the way home with the new one and pump it up.... Later, Mike (substitute strickland in the obvious location to reply directly) ----------------------------------- Please send all email as text only - HTML mail is automatically filtered to the trash and I might not catch it. |
#20
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Michael Strickland wrote:
On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 18:44:47 GMT, Doug Miller wrote: When you install the new tank, put a tire pressure gauge on the air fitting to measure the precharge pressure. Then let air out, or pump more in, as needed, to adjust the pressure to about 2 psi below the cut-on pressure setting on your pump control. Might I suggest to the OP the purchase of a powered air pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter in your vehicle. Hand pumping a pressure tank is a time-consuming and fatiguing process - at least for one the size I have (35 gal). I used a little portable battery powered air pump that I bought to top off the vehicle tires from time to time, but one that plugs into your vehicle would work just as well so long as you can get your vehicle close enough. They are relatively inexpensive - IIRC I've seen them for about $20. I guess if you know your cut-on pressure, you could take the tank to the gas station and put air in it there to obtain the correct pressure. Bit of a pain to disconnect/reconnect and load/unload though. If you're replacing your tank, you could stop on the way home with the new one and pump it up.... I believe that most are already factory charged to the correct pressure. My Well-Trol by Amtrol was precharged to 30 PSI (according to the label). Later, Mike (substitute strickland in the obvious location to reply directly) ----------------------------------- Please send all email as text only - HTML mail is automatically filtered to the trash and I might not catch it. |
#21
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On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 10:27:03 -0500, willshak wrote:
I believe that most are already factory charged to the correct pressure. My Well-Trol by Amtrol was precharged to 30 PSI (according to the label). True, they are precharged to a standard pressure, don't recall off the top of my head what mine was precharged to. 30 psi precharge is good for a pump cut-on pressure of around 32 psi. Precharge should actually be 27-28 psi for a 30/50 pressure switch if 30 psi is the actual cut-on pressure. The reason for suggesting raising the pressure is that the OP is using, IIRC, 42 psi as the cut-on pressure, which means that he needs somewhere around 40 psi precharge. Precharge pressure should be a couple-three psi below cut-on pressure, so it depends on what your cut-on pressure is exactly what your precharge pressure needs to be for optimal pump operation. Later, Mike (substitute strickland in the obvious location to reply directly) ----------------------------------- Please send all email as text only - HTML mail is automatically filtered to the trash and I might not catch it. |
#22
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Michael Strickland wrote:
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 10:27:03 -0500, willshak wrote: I believe that most are already factory charged to the correct pressure. My Well-Trol by Amtrol was precharged to 30 PSI (according to the label). True, they are precharged to a standard pressure, don't recall off the top of my head what mine was precharged to. 30 psi precharge is good for a pump cut-on pressure of around 32 psi. Precharge should actually be 27-28 psi for a 30/50 pressure switch if 30 psi is the actual cut-on pressure. The reason for suggesting raising the pressure is that the OP is using, IIRC, 42 psi as the cut-on pressure, which means that he needs somewhere around 40 psi precharge. Precharge pressure should be a couple-three psi below cut-on pressure, so it depends on what your cut-on pressure is exactly what your precharge pressure needs to be for optimal pump operation. I'm not a plumber, so I was just commenting on the factory precharge as listed on my tank. As a matter of fact, I do not know what the working pressure is on my tank. It is 20 years old and has never been tested or serviced, unless that was done by the plumber that installed it 20 years ago. I should have it looked at, although it is working fine, as far as I can tell. For one thing, the pressure guage is broken (needle sitting at 0), and has been like that for many years. My wife's nephew is a plumber and has installed our Central A/C, services our boiler, and does our other plumbing jobs when needed. The last time he was here, I mentioned the pressure guage being broken and he said he would replace it, but you know how it is with getting relatives to do jobs for you. :-) I also just found out the tank name was Well-X-Trol, not Well-Trol (the X is stylized into the logo). Later, Mike (substitute strickland in the obvious location to reply directly) ----------------------------------- Please send all email as text only - HTML mail is automatically filtered to the trash and I might not catch it. |
#23
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#24
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On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 15:54:44 GMT, "Michael Strickland"
wrote: The reason for suggesting raising the pressure is that the OP is using, IIRC, 42 psi as the cut-on pressure, which means that he needs somewhere around 40 psi precharge. Yes, the pump cuts on at 42 PSI, according to the gauge in the water line. If I put my tire gauge on the air at the top of the tank, it shows 46PSI. Should I lower that to 40? So what I need to know is if the precharge pressure should be measured with the tank empty or with water in it (assuming that the bladder has burst). If I pump it up to 40PSI w/o water, the air pressure is going to be very high after water is pumped in. --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#25
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
We're OK for now, but not great. I'll probably have someone come look at it soon, since we seem to need a new tank. I looked at them at Home Depot yesterday, and one that looks like the size we have costs $240. You frequently see better prices (and higher quality) at plumbing supply shops, and farm supply stores. If there's a TSC store in your area, it's probably worth your while to pick up the phone and call them. |
#26
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 15:54:44 GMT, "Michael Strickland" wrote: The reason for suggesting raising the pressure is that the OP is using, IIRC, 42 psi as the cut-on pressure, which means that he needs somewhere around 40 psi precharge. Yes, the pump cuts on at 42 PSI, according to the gauge in the water line. If I put my tire gauge on the air at the top of the tank, it shows 46PSI. Should I lower that to 40? I wouldn't worry about it. The difference is probably due to inaccuracies in the gauges. So what I need to know is if the precharge pressure should be measured with the tank empty or with water in it (assuming that the bladder has burst). Empty. That's what is meant by precharge pressure. If I pump it up to 40PSI w/o water, the air pressure is going to be very high after water is pumped in. No, it won't. The control switch will shut off the pump when the pressure reaches the set point of 58 psi. |
#27
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On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 13:15:41 -0500, Jud McCranie
wrote: On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 15:54:44 GMT, "Michael Strickland" wrote: The reason for suggesting raising the pressure is that the OP is using, IIRC, 42 psi as the cut-on pressure, which means that he needs somewhere around 40 psi precharge. Yes, the pump cuts on at 42 PSI, according to the gauge in the water line. If I put my tire gauge on the air at the top of the tank, it shows 46PSI. Should I lower that to 40? So what I need to know is if the precharge pressure should be measured with the tank empty or with water in it (assuming that the bladder has burst). If I pump it up to 40PSI w/o water, the air pressure is going to be very high after water is pumped in. Without water.. The cut-on doesn't care if its 46PSI of air or 46PSI of water... That's the whole point of having the air in there, it can compress to come up with the upper limit.. so you don't short cycle like you were before. As for the shower pressure, do you have the water valve to the house fully open? Sounds like a blockage between tank and house. You'll have plenty of pressure as long as you use practically no volume.. with a valve partially open.. |
#28
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 00:43:33 GMT, Chuck wrote:
As for the shower pressure, do you have the water valve to the house fully open? Yes, it is fully open. Sounds like a blockage between tank and house. You'll have plenty of pressure as long as you use practically no volume.. with a valve partially open.. Pressure and flow are low. But the gauge at the tank shows 42-57 PSI. --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#31
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
On 10 Nov 2004 19:28:34 -0800, (Harry K) wrote: With that much pressure in the tank, you shouldn't have any flow problems at any outlet even using 2 at once. You have blockage somewhere after the tank or a valve that is only partly open. It is possible that the blown bag is allowing full flow into the tank and then at least partially blocking the outlet for outflow, i.e., acting like a flapper valve. Good call, Harry -- that just might be the explanation. Yes, it could be. Also, with the broken bag, the volume of air in the tank is different from what it would normally be, FWIW. I plan to call a water system guy tomorrow. Ahhh, never mind calling the water system guy, just replace the stupid tank. That's what he's going to do anyway. Might as well replace it yourself and save the cost of a service call -- it isn't rocket science. Anybody who can use a wrench can replace a pressure tank. |
#32
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On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 11:19:34 -0500, willshak wrote:
I'm not a plumber, so I was just commenting on the factory precharge as listed on my tank. As a matter of fact, I do not know what the working pressure is on my tank. It is 20 years old and has never been tested or serviced, unless that was done by the plumber that installed it 20 years ago. I'm no plumber either, but have researched quite a bit on wells and their maintenance so I could do whatever necessary plumbing-wise to get water from the well to the house - the driller just drilled, installed the pump and checked it. I built the wellhouse, installed the pressure switch, tank, filter (to make sure no sand gets to the house) and the line from the wellhouse to inside the house where the plumber took over (new construction). As you may can tell, I like to take a hands-on approach G. Having the proper precharge pressure (and a large enough tank for your standard usage) just keeps pump starts to a minimum, prolonging life. All recommendations I've seen say that the precharge pressure should be 2-3 psi below the pump cut-on pressure. Since pressure switches come with a preset of 30/50 (there's a 20/40 and a high/low adjustable also IIRC), 30 psi precharge would be close to right. Your plumber, when installing the system, may have lowered the pressure in the tank a couple of psi or he could have adjusted the pressure switch to a little higher than 30 cut-on pressure - just a matter of turning a nut clockwise on the switch I have. Then again, he may have done nothing but install the equipment - it appears to have served you well no matter what the situation. I should have it looked at, although it is working fine, as far as I can tell. For one thing, the pressure guage is broken (needle sitting at 0), and has been like that for many years. Unless you're having one of the problems below, I'd just replace the gauge and let it be. Frequent pump cycling - Turn off water where pipe enters house, then check pressure to see if it stays steady for at least 30 minutes. Turning off water within the house eliminates pressure drops from leaky toilet valves and dripping faucets. Yes pressure drops - Could be a leak in the pipes somewhere or water is flowing back into well when pump is off. Turn off shutoff near pump and check pressure again after a minimum of 30 minutes. If it holds steady, there's probably a leak between the wellhouse and the house (think you'd probably know if it's inside the house). If the pressure drops, the valve that your system uses to keep water from flowing back into the well is not working properly - mine is a deep well submersible pump with foot valve. No pressure stays steady - probably hole in tank bladder - replace tank Low pressure - check filter, screens in faucets, holes in faucet aerators and shower heads. If you have galvanized pipe and the system is old (probably is if you have galvanized), the pipes may be filled with rust and need replacing. Replacing the pressure gauge should be a simple fix if you can operate a crescent wrench and a pair of pliers. They're available at Home Depot and Lowes pretty cheap. Just cut off the water and let off the pressure. Then use the wrench to unscrew the original gauge while holding the pipe it's screwed onto stationary with the pliers and screw on the new. Turn the water back on and you're in business. Might want to put some plumbers putty or teflon tape on the threads of the pipe the gauge screws onto. If the pipe the gauge screws onto needs replacing also (might be full of rust), they're available at HD and Lowes too. Later, Mike (substitute strickland in the obvious location to reply directly) ----------------------------------- Please send all email as text only - HTML mail is automatically filtered to the trash and I might not catch it. |
#33
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#34
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 12:23:19 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: Ahhh, never mind calling the water system guy, just replace the stupid tank. I'm thinking about that, but I don't know if I can do it. I haven't called them yet. That's what he's going to do anyway. Might as well replace it yourself and save the cost of a service call -- it isn't rocket science. Anybody who can use a wrench can replace a pressure tank. Hmmm... I don't even have a wrench as big as the pipe. I'm not very good at moving something that big, and I'd probably have to get a truck anyway. I'm going to do one or the other. It's cheaper to buy a couple of pipe wrenches at Sears, and rent a truck, than to pay somebody else to put the tank in for you. :-) |
#35
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:19 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote: It's cheaper to buy a couple of pipe wrenches at Sears, and rent a truck, than to pay somebody else to put the tank in for you. :-) I know it is simple - set it in there and connect one pipe, but I don't think I'm physically able to do it. --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#36
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In article , Jud McCranie wrote:
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:19 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: It's cheaper to buy a couple of pipe wrenches at Sears, and rent a truck, than to pay somebody else to put the tank in for you. :-) I know it is simple - set it in there and connect one pipe, but I don't think I'm physically able to do it. Ah, I see. I hope I didn't offend. Perhaps you can get a buddy or a neighbor to put it in for you. It's still cheaper to buy pipe wrenches at Sears, rent a truck, and buy a couple pizzas and a case of beer for your neighbor. If you live in central Indiana, maybe we can make a deal. :-) |
#37
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Jud McCranie wrote in message . ..
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:19 GMT, (Doug Miller) wrote: It's cheaper to buy a couple of pipe wrenches at Sears, and rent a truck, than to pay somebody else to put the tank in for you. :-) I know it is simple - set it in there and connect one pipe, but I don't think I'm physically able to do it. --- Replace you know what by j to email I see google is being very slow again as yesterday's post hasn't shown yet. Don't be intimidated by the -size- of the tank. They weigh relatively nothing. The box they come in and any packing materials almost weigh as much as the tank. They are awkward to haul and maneuver tho due to the size. Harry K |
#38
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Latest: today we drained the tank again and this time I pumped the
pressure up higher with a tire pump that plugs into a cigarette lighter, and refilled the tank. Also, right now I'm bypassing a filter, which was clogged up. (I really should have checked that earlier, but I replaced it not too long ago.) The air pressure in the tank is 62 PSI. At the moment the water pressure and flow is fine - just like it should be. I'm going to see how it holds over the next few days. The pump is running for about 15 seconds each time. Should it be longer? --- Replace you know what by j to email |
#39
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remember some pumps (this was mainly on shallow
well systems) that had a "Snifter Valve"; the purpose of which was to sniff in a little bit of air every time the pump ran to maintain the air reserve which is absolutely essential. Never heard of that, and it sounds not only dumb but pointless, here is why. . .. if you have a tank (no bladder ) 1/2 full w/ water and trapped (compressed ) air on top and your water outlet is on the bottom of the tank , HOW CAN THE AIR ESCAPE ? ? SOOOO WHY WOULD THEY NEED TO PUT A SPHINCTER VALVE ON ? ? ? |
#40
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