On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 15:56:24 +0100, Martin Angove wrote:

In message ,
Richard Porter wrote:


You don't need a junction box but you should put a cooker switch where
the socket is and a cooker outlet lower down behind the oven.

Seems to be the most sensible advice so far :-)

A built-in oven needs to be wired in permanently and not plugged into
a socket.

I'm not suggesting you are completely wrong, but can you tell me why
this should be? In some ways I'd have thought it quite a good idea to
have an oven on a socket - most single built-in ovens only draw between
2 and 3kW anyway. I've done this with our "cooker" circuit: 32A, 6mm2
cable to Big Red Switch, but the other side of the switch is 6mm2 cable
running to a double 13A socket, one for the 2kW oven, one for the could
be run using a battery hob ignition. In many ways this is just a
standard 32A radial circuit which has the potential for easy upgrade in
the future to cater for an electric hob if necessary.

In the OP's case I'll concede that he is actually talking about an
electric hob and the standard solution I've seen is to wire hob and oven
in parallel to the cooker circuit outlet. Wiring the hob to the BRS and
using the outlet's socket for the oven means you have to show that the
currents add up, as the standard discrimination rule of "... plus 5A if
the control unit incorporates a socket outlet" is obviously going to be
broken in the case of a 2kW oven.

Saw a 90mm range cooker (gas hob/electric oven) the other day with a
moulded-on plug.

Using a socket for the oven makes for easier maintenance (just pull the
plug out to release the oven) and also provides some degree of
discrimination: a fault in (say) the oven should blow the 13A plug fuse
before the 32A main breaker.

It is also analogous to built-in appliances of other types which often
have heaters of 2kW or so and are often plugged into a socket (or
fused outlet) below worktop height which is controlled by a 20A switch
above the worktop.

[...]


The hood doesn't take much current so you can use a normal 13 amp
socket on the ring main (or on a spur).


Hmmm... and probably not a good idea to do as I have seen recently
where the (0.5mm2?) 2-core flex from the fan had been taken down behind
the tiles and connected into the electric hob's terminals.

Hwyl!


As you say there is no reason why a single over with a rating of less than
13A should not be plugged into a ring socket.

As for supply both and elecric hob and the oven from a 32A radial this is
not a problem either. Whilst the total current draw for both appliances
may well be 50A diversity rules come info force.
Which IIRC for a domestic kitchen are 100% of the first 10A of full total
load + 30% of the remainder. That would make 22A expected load, in fact you
would have just enough capacity to wire a double socket (5A each) as well.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
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