Elmar said:

That's why I asked for people's EXPERIENCE....

No offense, but I am not spending a grand for some yahoo to do the
same job I can do for $200.

I am VERY familiar with running electricity and how to accomplish the
job. I was looking for wire size recommendations.

My shop is located in the garage, less than 50' from the main panel.
I installed a 6 slot sub-panel in the garage and used 4-4-4-6 copper.
I run 60 amp breakers in the main panel. The sub-panel feeds a 120v
15A lighting circuit, a 120v GFCI protected 20A run (with motor delay
breaker), and a 20A 240 run. I could have used larger mains, but
don't need the capacity. If I add a welder in the future, it is
possible to easily upgrade. The 120v line uses 10G wire to reduce
voltage drop that is problematic with 120v equipment. There is an
existing lighting circuit in case the main trips (although unlikely).

Wiring in the garage is surface mounted and contained in conduit.
I used large 10G THWN wire for the 120v lines.
I used 12G THWN for the 240 lines.
I used 14g for the 15A fluorescent lighting lines.

I wouldn't use aluminum wiring - voltage drop and connection issues.
The slight cost involved in over-engineering your electricals will be
paid for in future flexibility.

You *must* perform an electrical consumption worksheet to discover how
much extra capacity is available from your existing main service. The
inspector will do this - and you will not pass if you stuff an 80 amp
sub-panel feed in a 3BR house with a 100AMP main panel.

You *must* perform a conductor quantity, electrical box and conduit
volume calculation to adhere to code. NEC 2002 - 314.16

Here is a link to a great electrical forum, run by an Electrical
Inspector in Indiana:

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewiringusa/index.htm

FWIW,

Greg G.