On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 23:45:41 -0500, Robert Galloway
wrote:

Have an old Jet 10" contractor's saw with Forrest blade. Works great
for small stuff and moderate size stuff. I could stand a heavy cabinet
saw for really large stuff but I don't do all that much large stuff. I
fail to see where I'd be a whole lot happier with a smaller machine for
jewelry boxes. I don't have a chop saw so can't compare. I do have a
RAS but usually use the table saw.

I've got a chop saw (read miter saw) and I've found it to be almost as
accurate as a table saw, but less versitile. I generally lay my rule
on the wood, and bring the saw down to line up my cut [with my fingers
far away from the trigger] You have to get your head right down
there, though. Trying to line up the edge of the kerf with the ruler
mark from 2 or 3 feet away is often going to be inaccurate.

This could be a function of the fact that I have a simple miter saw,
so there are less parts to slop around. I looked at the CMS, but it
seemed like only a marginally more useful tool, since the only thing I
would think to use that secondary angle adust for would be crown
molding, but I rarely cut that anyhow.

bob g.

Prometheus wrote:

On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 13:53:14 GMT, "mark" wrote:


Have 6 jewerly boxes to make. Working on four now, one is Cherry, another
is Purple Heart, the 3d is white oak, and the fourth is mahogany. Need to
find some different 1/2" thick wood for the other two. Hmmm, wonder what a
Baltic Birch ply would look like, just bought some of Rockler's small
sheets last weekend for $2.50 a piece.

--
Paul O.


Do you jewelry box makers have all those cool miniature table saws and what
not? I tried to make a few boxes, but my 12" chop saw didn't have the
accuracy, even with a really good fine cut blade in it.



I have a Delta 10" Benchtop (about $99 around here), it works really
nice for small stuff, but it's a PITA for bigger things. Just make
sure that the fence is square every time you move it.