No surprises there. Even dry, unless you have an outward taper, the
stuff'll want to stay due to centrifugal forces. One advantage to hollowing
with a pointy gouge is that you already have a path for the shavings - down
the flute. I like to use a pointy gouge for initial space even when I'm
going to transition to the Stewart tool, because it's self-ejecting.

You may find the burnish won't give you all you want. Though you've got wet
fiber, which is easy to compress, it's easily torn away with your wool, so
you may get some artifact as it dries, or as you add a polar solvent like
alcohol. Not to worry, as long as it isn't gross, because it'll sand.

Tips are someone else's mistakes, at best. Urban legend at worst. You're
just going to have to try, and never stop thinking as you weigh options.

Greg G. wrote in message
news

The thing I really had trouble with was keeping waste cleared out of
the interior of the vessel. Being wet, it seemed to want to build up
around the outer edges of the vessel and was hard to brush out. I
could use the tool in a fashion that would sweep most of them out of
the interior, but there were some stubborn bits.

When you get the twist and drop, three grits of sandpaper will become
superfluous.

I didn't use sandpaper. I did run a green 3M sanding pad over the
surface when finished, and then burnished it with some of the turning
waste. But I found that a gentle, controlled application of various
tools resulted in a very nice finish all on it's own.

I mostly need to get more experience and read up on various tip and
techniques.