Michael Brewer wrote:

"Bob" wrote in message ...
"Michael Brewer" wrote in message
om...
The following appeared in the course of another topic, but I think it
warrants a separate thread.

In uk.d-i-y, Michael Brewer wrote:

1) You and others have mentioned that the regs say that the control
switch for an appliance must be within 2m of that appliance. Do the
regs say whether the control switch must be above the counter (i.e.
instantly accessible) or is it OK to have them out of sight under the
counter, but still accessible through a cupboard?


Then Stefek replied:

I'm pretty sure, but don't claim to be authoritative, that the
switches
are supposed to be accessible. The full-on answer would depend on the
function the switches are considered to be performing: if emergency
shutoff, then visible-and-accessible; if isolation, less accessible
would
be permitted. Let's use common sense he definitely one of the
reasons
you want the switches is to cut power to your cooking appliance if
something
catches fire on it or in it. Then you want to be able to cut the power
PDQ alongside doing Other Sensible Things (covering with well-dampened
towel, for example) - and the "you" might just be Auntie Mabel cooking
lunch for all of you. Hence the requirement for the switch to be in
plain
view and close by - i.e. I'd think long and hard about pretending a
cooking appliance isolator does *not* have any emergency switching
function.

------------

Now, what Stefek is saying does seem to make good sense. However, you
know all those fancy designer kitchens you see in magazines (well some
magazines)? You rarely see a plug socket above the worktop, never
mind a socking great cooker control switch / fuse unit to ruin their
beautiful (expensive) design. Where do they put them? Or do they
have hoardes of servants to deal with Auntie Mabel's mishaps?

Thanks.
Mike

Interesting thoughts....

However, if the oven or hob is gas, then the fact that the nearest isolator
could be the emergency control valve on the gas meter that could be locked
away in the garage or an outside meter cupboard seems to negate your
reasoning.

I would say the switches are for isolation rather than emergency use.

I have used 'hidden' switching throughout my wife's new kitchen, mainly
because I used 'very hard' porcelain tiles that were a right pig to cut
without stress cracking. I resorted to a diamond blade in my angle grinder
in the end, but that's another story.

Hope that sheds some light on it,

Bob


A good point. There is a gas control valve near(ish) to where our gas
hob will be, but I'm going to put a socking great pan drawer unit in
front which will conceal it nicely to render it useless in case of an
emergency. Well, the drawers will of course be removeable, so I'm
hoping it's not going to offend against some gas regulation (I'm also
hoping I won't have to put a big sticker on the front of the drawer to
comply).


The one for our hob is in the cupboard under it which is full of
crockery. There's no sticker on the door either you'll be pleased to
know and our house was built by a reputable national house builder - ha
bloody ha. I was in the loft the other week and noticed that the wiring
for the recessed spots in the bathroom had lots of joints wrapped up
with insulating tape. It doesn't feel like there are any "chocolate
blocks" inside so I'm guessing the wires are just twisted together -
quick, where's my NHBC warranty ;-)

By the way, did you "hide" your switching at the back of a nearby
base/wall cabinet so as still to be reasonably accessible even if not
instantly visible?

Mike