Removing the pit as quickly as possible may work with oak more so right
after the tree has been cut. With fruit wood, ash and at time oak my
mentor suggested to fill the inside of the rough bowl with wet wood chips
and then place the bowl into a plastic bag. When in doubt it was suggested
to apply three coats of Anchorseal. The other thing suggested was that when
roughing the bowl the wall thickness should be about 10% of diameter of the
rough bowl. The wall thickness should be uniform throughout so as not to
create stress points. I have noticed that the wall thickness of most of my
cracked oak and ash bowls are not uniformed and consistent. FWIW

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
"Am turning" seems to suggest over a period of time. As the cracks are
certainly the result of green wood drying, your best advice is to schedule
your turning to get the center out immediately after turning the outside.
Failing that, bag your bowl in plastic when not working - I'll let Leif
offer his alternative - to hold moisture.

Now, are the "cracks" just end checks caused by surface dryness, or are
they
the biggies that run through where the wall will be? If the former, turn
them away and dry with care. If the latter, lots of advice, but red oak
is
not precious enough, in my opinion, to go to such lengths as others have
mentioned. If it's otherwise ordinary wood, pitch and begin anew. If
highly figured, have at it with either CA or Epoxy-supported fill,
remembering that highly contrasting is usually preferable to similar.

"Frosty Thunder" wrote in message
...
I am turning a red oak bowl and have several cracks that have developed.
What is the best way to repair this? I have heard of epoxy being used
but
don't know what type or where to get it. Any thoughts would be
appricated.

George