From: "Walter R."


Use a 2 foot by 4 foot panel for built-in fluorescents. Cut it up in 1 foot
square segments. Mount each segment underneath your recessed fixture,
suspending it about 1". You will have a 1 squarefoot light fixture. The key
is in diffusing the bright light. Probably will look like super-modern
lighting fixtures that nobody else can boast about.

--

Walter
The Happy Iconoclast www.rationality.net

What about the remaining 36" of fixture?
How would one change a bulb?

-

Albert wrote in message ...
We are doing a major remodel and improvement on our house. It started
as a fixer-upper. After living in the house for 9 years, we finally
have the funds to do the job and a real good idea what improvements
are needed.

We are stuck on the living room/tv room/family room lighting however
and need help!!!!!!!!!

We spent $600 on recessed lighting. When we finally put bulbs in it,
it became painfully clear that it would not work. The lighting we
bought was recessed lighting cans for 2 by 6 construction. Since the
downstairs is all open, we can look from the living room to the dining
room (about 36' by 14') without interveening any walls. We placed
recessed cans per the manufacturers recommendations and put in some
additional cans on a separate electrical circuit for an extra boost
for times when we needed higher intensity lighting for reading.

The problem is with the glare, which is due to the light bulbs
protruding downward so that the tip of the bulb is actually directly
line of sight from the living room couch looking towards the far end
of the house. We have tried all types of compact florescent lights.
They are great for producing high light levels for the amount of power
they consume (very economical). .Even with 'low profile' lamps, it is
impossible to avoid looking directly at the very intense light from
the tip of the light bulb. Yes, we tried different trim rings and
diffusers. The trim rings help as they stick down and minimize how
much of the bulb is directly visible. The diffusers are a disaster
however, they all suck up alot of light, we find that we have to
double the amount of energy used in order to get the same light level,
which makes them very energy hungry.

In all cases, our problem is with direct viewing of the light bulb
itself. The units that are directly overhead don't produce a problem
because we don't look straight up. The lights that are 25 to 30 feet
away are not a problem because the trim rings stick down far enough to
prevent direct viewing of the bulbs. But, the lights in the 5 to 20
feet distance are a big+ problem because there is no way to prevent a
direct line of sight between the tip of the bulb and the human eye.

We lived for the last 5 years with 4 foot florescent tube basement
lights (commonly called 'worklights'). They were temporary, so we hung
them from the ceiling as one would do in a basement. They were ugly as
sin, but they put out good light and because the tube was long and had
alot of surface area, you could stare at the tube without seeing
spots. These compact florescent lights in the recessed lighting cans
are horrible because they are very high power with a relatively small
surface area, so any portion of the bulb that is directly viewable is
unbearably intense.

Our construction is on hold (can't put sheetrock/drywall up on the
ceilings) due to this problem, is there an answer?

Thanks,

Art in Maine

ky1k att pivot dott net


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