On Sat, 04 Sep 2004 01:01:31 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Sep 2004 19:15:25 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

After it cures, which it does using water, the only way I know of is
mechanical - i.e. scrape or wear off.

Assuming it's bonded to the surface. It doesn't to the nozzle so
faffing about trying to clean that part and getting the stuff on your
hands(*) is a waste of time. Wait for it to fully cure unscrew the
tube from the valve head and pull it of clean, prod about with
something small in the valve head and that comes up as well.

Before it cures, I've found that acetone seems to affect it fairly
well.

The instructions mention vegetable oil which does work to a degree and
doesn't dry out your skin like acetone. Tried vegetable oil on oil
based paint the other day, removed it fine and again far better for
the skin and easier to wash off than turps.

I've tried that and it does work reasonably well as you say. As I
mentioned, I mainly use Resinega now, for this and for oil based
paints. There's a fine abrasive sensation and it removes a lot of
this type of stuff. However, there's also a skin moisturiser which
helps.


(*) Boy does it stick to skin, lightest of touch and it's stuck fast.
I'll be wearing lightweight disposable gloves next time, I couldn't do
the fine manipulation required for the tube cleaning with my proper
protective rubber gloves on so took 'em off...

I generally use them when I'm using PU glue, but also tend to use
disposable glue brushes.

It would make sense if you could buy tops and tubes for the filler
stuff separately. Of course that's naive, because then you wouldn't
buy far too big a can than is needed and waste half of it.


..andy

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