On 01 Sep 2004 16:01:42 GMT, otforme (Charlie Self)
wrote:

Mark one blade tip at the front of the table (unplug that sucker first). Set
the fence along the miter slot, as close to a dead on line up as you can.
Measure from the blade tip to the fence. Rotate the blade so the tip is at the
rear of the table (or as close as it gets, of course). Measure from the blade
tip to the fence. Keep it up until you cannot see the difference, or until
you've reached a 1/64th inch kickout at the rear of the blade. I think the
Aligner will work for this, too, giving a much more precise measurement, but
it's a bit more complex. I don't recall if it is in the tape or not, or the
manual.


I would strongly endorse one particular point that Charlie makes -- and go
a bit further (or maybe just add emphasis). Namely, purposely make the far
end of the fence at least 2 hundredths of an inch farther from the miter
slot than the near end is. Along the length of the fence that ain't much
-- and it is much less along the length of the blade. But, it helps ensure
that the far end is not closer to the slot than is the near end -- which,
as Charlie suggested, can be bad, very bad. When I set up my first TS
about a year ago I wanted everything perfectly parallel and used a dial
gauge. But I realized that I should take into account small measuring
mistakes that could be made and bumps of the fence here and there and
wanted to err clearly on the side of safety. FWIW. -- Igor