Thanks for the info. The model # is 36-755, but the previous owner had
added a biesemeyer fence instead of the original jet-lock fence.

I had already aligned the blade to the miter slot using the ts-aligner (jr.)
and was aligning the fence to the same miter slot. I don't think there is a
way to align the fence directly to the blade using the ts-aligner.

Josh


"Charlie Self" wrote in message
...
Josh asks:


I recently purchased a used Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw.

Which model?

I
purchased a TS-Aligner (that I think is awesome BTW) to help me set up the
saw and since this is my first TS I have a few questions. :-) I have
aligned the fence using the TS-Aligner. I think I have it about as good
as
I am going to get it. When I run the aligner along the fence the reading
fluctuates .002 of an inch in both directions along the face of the fence.

You want to align the fence with the saw blade, which is what needs to be
aligned with the miter slot. Go back to step one, align the blade with the
slot, and THEN align the blade with the fence.

If there is any difference, make sure it is to the rear, with the distance
opening up at the rear of the blade. This prevents pinching which can
cause
kickback.

Measure from the miter slot on the side on which you are making your cuts.
The
miter slots should be very, very close to parallel, but I don't recall
what the
specs are for Delta's saws right now. I wouldn't spend a whole lot of time
worrying about .003", though.

Also, I have purchased a biesemeyer anti-kickback splitter for the saw,
but
there is currently no slot in the insert for the splitter (it did not come
with one when I bought it). What is the best way to cut this slot?

Make a zero clearance insert. Cut the slot in the insert. Make the insert
of
phenolic, MDF, aluminum (soft alloy), your choice. Use the current insert
to
trace and outline. Bandsaw it out (scroll saw, jig saw, whatever's
available).
Rout the edges smooth aiming for a tight fit (drill a 3/4" hole all the
way
through the insert on the side opposite that where the blade rises for
easy
removal). You can either use tapped in adjustment screws to level the
insert,
or you can leave it be. Clamp to the table (in the insert hole) keeping
clamps
well clear of the where the blade will rise. Start the saw, blade down,
and
slowly bring the blade up into the new insert. Now, remove the insert and
cut
the slot for your splitter.

You will probably have to change to an 8" blade to be able to lower the
blade
below the bottom of the uncut insert. Or you can rout a short slot for
relief
where the blade will rise. Do NOT penetrate the entire insert.

It's really simpler than it sounds and it beats trying to modify a steel
insert
with mostly woodworking tools.

Charlie Self
"A judge is a law student who marks his own examination papers." H. L.
Mencken