Observation: the finish is quite soft after 8 hours. I
sprayed a sample board with Enduro WB poly and it's MUCH
harder than the lacquer.

Question: Granted, the lacquer was applied heavier than
ideal, but shouldn't a lacquer be hard enough not to peel
off with my fingernail after 8 hours??

There is no mfg. date on the can that I can find; something
I read tonight indicated (Flexner's book, IIRC) mentions
checking the date on pre-cat lacquer cans. Kinda like
canned shellac (drying problems, if it's too old)?

David

David wrote:

Finally picked up some Pre-cat lacquer to expand my horizons. First
attempt demonstrates it needs to be thinned. From the sources I've
found in books, I'm under the impression that it's treated like regular
nitro as far as thinning goes. Is that correct? Today I sprayed it at
80 degrees, high humidity (unusual for northern Cal) with HVLP. I
couldn't get flow out without putting on so much the result is that
dreaded "plastic" look.

I've e-mailed the mfg. for viscosity cup timings but in the meantime
(and WITHOUT A cup) I'm looking for GENERAL guidelines as to thinning
ratios. 10-20%?

What's about the max you can thin this stuff? Ratio for first 2 coats
and ratio for topcoat? I'm thinking I should go with thinning before I
consider a retarder; correct?

David