Hello to the group,

One thing to consider when whipping up a batch of your own oil is that
Linseed Oil and Pure Gum Spirits of Turpentine will alter (darken) the
colour of your wood over time. Linseed oil has a habit of turning very dark
to almost black over long periods of time... Go to any antique store and you
will see this on old pieces finished with Linseed oil. Currently, there is
no way to chemically reverse the colour degradation caused by Linseed oil.

PGST also will darken over time, to a lesser extent than Linseed. However,
be aware of these challenges if you are finishing museum, archival or
heirloom pieces. If these challenges are objectionable to you, consider
other base oils who do not present such long term problems. Take care and
all the best to you and yours!

--
Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell
Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio
The Woodlands, Texas

Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning
Industries

³Woodturning with Steven D. Russell² Volume #1 CD ROM * Available for
Shipment
³Woodturning with Steven D. Russell² Volume #2 CD ROM/DVD Video * Available
Soon




On 8/7/04 12:30 AM, in article ,
" wrote:

On Fri, 6 Aug 2004 14:25:30 -0700, "Derek Hartzell"
wrote:

I want a good finish for my natural edge bowls. I've used tung oil, tung
oil mixed with mineral spirit and now use Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil which I
like a lot better than the other two. I also tried Formby's Tung Oil finish
and didn't really like it. It seemed more brittle and crystalline. I want
a penetrating type with oil, like an oil varnish to protect my natural edge
bowls. One criteria is a faster build than what I'm getting. Some bowls
like pine and birch may take up to about 7-10 coats. Most bowls including
apple, cherry and maple take at least 4 coats. One member of my local club
suggested TruOil and I'm leaning toward that based on good comments in the
archives. Any other suggestions? I'll be ordering the Russell CD's when he
intros the new one, but I need to get a gallon soon.

Thanks,

Derek




Make your own.

There's no fine line between danish oils and wiping varnishes and
brushing varnishes. the basic ingredients are an oil or 2, a solvent
and a resin (varnish).

get a can each of tung oil, linseed oil, paint thinner, turpentine and
a good hard gloss varnish. Don't worry about the gloss- it'll
disappear in the mix, but gloss varnishes are what you want for this.

a classic recipe is equal parts oil, varnish and thinner. start there
and adjust to your preference. you may want 2 or more mixes, a thin
one for the first penetrating layer and thicker ones to get build.