at the risk of sounding like a shill for my own cheap faceplates (ok,
blatant advert - try www.home.labridge.com/~wnoble if you are interested),
I'll take a try and answering the question

1. you will not be successful with a friction fit of iron in wood, period.
the sides of the nut (particularly small ones like 1X8) are smooth.
2. CA glue is quite brittle
3. the fillet of expoxy does nothing except waste the epoxy.

so, how could you make this work other than spending the $5 to buy one of my
faceplates? ok, here are some choices:

1. use a suitable adhesive - a urethane such as is used on automotive
windshields ought to work - turn the recess for the nut so it has a groove
or two in it to give the urethane something to hold onto. Note, I haven't
tried this, but I know the urethane will hold to clean iron.

2. drill and tap holes into the nut (three will do) and use 10X24 screws to
fasten the disk to the nut

3. encase the nut in wood and hold the wood surround to the disk with wood
screws - this is probably the most time consuming but requires the lowest $$
outlay.

4. forget the stupid nut, drill and tap the wood directly. this will hold
up for a while, when it eventually strips, make a new one.



"Maxprop" wrote in message
ink.net...
Having adopted Andrew Hilton's method for honing tools between
sharpenings,
ie--fining them on a disc made of MDF with a 6" PSA sanding disc attached
to
one side and a method of attaching it to the spindle on the lathe on the
other, I've run into a snag.

I used a 3" faceplate on my first such disc, but tried a second method of
attachment after someone suggested this: turning a partial-thickness
recess
on the back of the MDF and gluing a nut (1x8 in this case) in the recess
for
attachment to the spindle. After two attempts at this, it's been a
failure.
In both cases I turned the backside hole slightly undersized for the nut,
then seated the nut into the hole with a brass mallet while gluing with
gap-filling cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue), and then applying a
fillet
of epoxy around the flats of the nut to fill the gaps between the nut and
the hole sides. I even scruff sanded the flats on the nut to bond to the
epoxy better. In both cases the nut eventually popped out of the hole,
sending the disc flying. I was not honing a tool at either time, and the
lathe was set to its lowest speed--roughly 450rpm.

Any ideas as to why the nut won't stay in the hole?

Max