"Eric Cartman" wrote in message
om...
Damn

I have built a face-frame to replace the door/architrave of my boiler
cupboard. Got it silky smooth, primer, 3 layers of undercoat, got that
really smooth then affixed the frame to the cupboard.

Then the dreaded gloss (oil based, seems far superior to water based,
prefer the longer open time). I have many runs and sags despite
trying to lay on lightly and laying off each time it still ran when I
wasnt looking!

I am now faced with flatting this coat down and trying again, only now
the frame is attached to the cupboard it will be even harder to
sand!!!!

Read all the threads on rollers, brushes etc... anyone have any good
tips or ideas to share? I hate gloss and next house will be natural
wood!

Cheers

EC

Sanding out runs in gloss can be a tricky business - the extra thickness of
the paint in the runs means that they take an age to dry properly - days,
weeks... A light touch going through a couple of grades is necessary IME,
and it can be worth doing it in a couple of attempts - take the top of the
run off, then leave the newly exposed (still soft) paint in the run to dry
for another day and go at it again. The problem seems to be that the
solvents have by now penetrated & slightly softened the previously dry paint
below, which means that the undercoat now starts to come off under the run,
spoiling that nice flat finish below.

All I can suggest is that this is an area where a really light painting
technique (more really thin coats than one or two thick ones) is essential,
and good trade paint is superior to cheaper consumer paints. I generally
use Leyland Trade or Johnstones, but have used Dulux Trade, Permaglaze, etc
with good results in the past.

We use eggshell in preference now, seems to give better, flatter results
(also doesn't require undercoat).

Laying on thinly and evenly with a gloss roller and then laying off lightly
with a decent brush has given me good results. I use a mini-roller designed
for paintng behind radiators, but with a foam gloss roller (Wickes do a pack
of 10 for a couple of quid). In between coats I remove the roller and wrap
it up tightly in cling film, which keeps it workable. This also works quite
well with brushes, saving the need for perpetual cleaning with white spirit.

If you do see a run or curtain developing, there's just too much paint on
that area, and you'll just need to keep going back to it and brushing it out
several times otherwise it'll keep coming back.

That's about it, really. For perfection, thin, thin thin coats and a decent
trade paint.


cheers
Richard

--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk