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RJ
 
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Default URGENT Leaking hot water cylinder (pressurised) HELP

Hi all

I've just spent ages looking at what I've got - and I think its all
clicked and I understand it. The cylinder has 4 pipes (excluding
pressure/temp releif) - boiler in/return; cold feed and hot out.

The boiler in/return is linked via an electric valve to the heating
system, so this circut is under about 2 bar pressure controlled with
its own pressure vessle/release valve.

So - I reckon I could loop the boiler feeds, and put a stop-cock on
the cold feed and the hot water out. This would mean I could have
cold water and heating and not worry about the cylinder - and okay -
no hot water.

In which case, I'd be 100% confident of ripping out the cylinder
without doing any damage.

Assuming a replacement of a vented (aka thermal storage) system - from
what I've found on the web, I'd just need to connect up the right pipe
to the right hole and I'd have hot water again. Is it as LOGICALLY
easy as that? (I know how to de/repressurise the boiler/heating
loop).

Any comments welcome, and I've got a few more questions below. Don't
worry about running before walking, I never jump too quickly! Also -
if I'm right about the issolation bit - its okay as we don't need hot
water as we can go to the local swimming pool for a swim and shower
every day!!! SO I can take my time!

Some questions if I may be so bold
1 - is my understanding logically okay?
2 - any recommended systems / suppliers (UB or SL area)
3 - do systems normally come with all fixings and instruction
manuals!!!?
4 - a phosphor de-scaler was noted in this thread. What is this and
where does it fit?
5 - whats the thing I have on the boiler feeds on the tank. Red thing
with long white wire. Is it a flow switch? If so - whats it for and
whats its current purpose?
6 - any recommendations for websites to look at appreciated

You have all been unbelieveably helpful - and are giving me some
confidence to undertake this (only replacing with the storage type!!).
IF I could get a plumber I'd be happy to pay, watch and learn, but
they are just so busy they aren't interested!

Any comments welcome - and if you want to talk to me directly you can
via my email address which is on http://www.ryanandmel.com - under
PERSONAL INFORMATION. (username=jones / password=jones)

THANKS AGAIN!

RJ


Andy Hall wrote in message . ..
On 11 Jan 2004 01:54:00 -0800, (RJ) wrote:

Semi tempted by this thought - but for 2 things - 1 getting the right
seal - I can't find any mention of this particular setup on the web
anywhere! and 2 - the top of the cylinder looks so rusted, that if all
the rust is removed and cleaned away, it'll be impossible to reseal as
the cylinder is so pitted and rusted...

My neighbours had theirs replaced (by their landlord) - So I'll call
them and see if they can take a look - whilst on DIY issues I'd say
I'm 8/10 er, I'm not at all ofay with this type of setup....


Then don't do it. This is a cylinder of hot water at 60 degrees,
stored under mains pressure - up to about about 4 bar. Really,
according to Building Regulations they are supposed to be (legally
speaking) installed and maintained by a plumber specifically trained
on pressurised cylinders.

Normally, I will tackle anything with respect to plumbing, and I am
far from being a fan of government regulation but looking at your
photos, I wouldn't entertain the idea of trying to fix this cylinder.
Even if you can clean it up, and it looks doubtful to me, then you
would have to be very sure that it all goes back together properly.
What you don't know is whether the cylinder has in other respects
corroded and deteriorated. I would say that this really isn't worth
the risk.

If you want to DIY this, then IMM's idea of a heatbank does make
sense. It would be quite easy to plumb this in, although a bit of
wiring would be needed, and it has the advantage that the contents of
the cylinder are not under pressure. The heat is stored in the
cylinder in the form of water at low pressure and then this is pumped
through an efficient heat exchanger to heat the mains water. With a
vented primary system you can connect directly. I notice on yours
what looks to be a small pressure vessel for the heating (red) at the
corner of the picture. In this case you have a sealed system and you
would use an indirect heat bank with its own header tank built in.

Alternatively, you could just get the cylinder replaced with a new
pressurised one. However this really is a job that is supposed to be
done by a trained professional. If you were a 10/10 person on
plumbing then I'd suggest that you make your own value judgment on
whether to DIY, but since you say 8/10, then I would think carefully.
If you get it wrong then you can create a dangerous situation.







"BigWallop" wrote in message ...
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
BigWallop wrote:


Now go out and buy a big wire brush and some scouring pads and clean the
whole up. Once youve done that, then more than likely you'l be able to
reseal the plate and tank back together no problem with some proper

neoprene
sealing rings. But it all has to be shiny clean.



Do you really think it can be resealed to 5 bar tested?
Safely?


Not disagreeing, just curious.


Depends on how competent the OP is, although the banding does a lot of the
work in pulling the two bits back together again, and as long as the correct
seals are used, then it is a job that can be done by someone who's good with
their hands and head (as in a bit of brain power). :-))


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