I love reading this , it's been fun and I take it you had a rough day.PJM is
at least funnier than you. Did you miss this page
http://homemyhome.com/id45.html it shows what was found by another company
on the work done.It took 6 months to get this far and another 2 months for
them to come back out to caulk instead of making an actual chamber .This
area is about 4' long 2' wide and 2' tall . Wouldn't it make more sense for
the air to go thru a chamber of some sort instead of filling up this area
before making it into the 2 main ducts? At least it wouldn't leak (excuse
the use of that word) air through the wall and cracks and out the baseboard.
Yes I bitch , yes some is petty .No I didn't wait till work was
stopped to complain. Yes the companies know of the web site, they will not
sue me because then it will become more public and you can't win a suit on
slander if it's true. Sorry for the offense you took for pokeing fun at you
.. If you get that upset about it don't dish it out. Why is it when a regular
on a newsgroup doesn't like a post grammer always becomes an issue? After
the condensation leaves it's location of origin and drips to a flat area
then goes down an open hole would it not then become a leak. It could be
called draining I suppose but wouldn't it need to be a drain hole to say
it's draining and not leaking?
Yes it's the same site and it's been up since December just new rework was
done recently and you would have to live in this neighborhood to really
understand it all and my neighbors feel the same about thier houses.
Excuse not posting this below, I didn't feel like it . Just sue
me......lol


"CBHvac" wrote in message
...

"D.S." wrote in message
igy.com...

"CBHvac" wrote in message
news

"D.S." wrote in message
igy.com...
Here is a different water leak that comes from line before it gets
to
the
unit go to this page and click on water leak picture show
http://homemyhome.com/photoshow.html


I have to admit..other than the way you present what you call photos,
I
cant
see ****...just lots of glare..
A very cheap POS case, and some OmegaFlex..

That line, is called a suction line, btw...thought you might want to
at
least know what its called, even if you dont know why its got
condensation
on it..

I know it's condensation but if I want to call it a leak since that
is
what it's actually doing in the end, when it drips into the opening and
then
LEAKS into the plenum, which is actually just wood from frame of the
house
where the old return used to be , before this unit was put in and
changed
to
a down draft or whatever.

And you want to put up a page of bitchin...LOL...

First, your a bitchaholic..seen your page before, and it hasnt changed
much.
Second, its not a leak, its condensation and its dripping, not leaking. A
leak, you jackass, would mean that the pipe that is SWEATING, would carry
water, and its not. Glad this isnt rocket science, and your not workin for
NASA...


Glad I am not your neighbor..and you are glad of that too....
Trust me..

Have the inspectors stopped coming to your home now? Do they run to the
other side of the street when you come out? Have you bitched, cryed and
whined enough that the property values have hit new lows in your area?
They must have...if sound insulation would exceed 50% of the value of your
home...sheeeesh....


Just a few thought genuis..

1- On your rumors page, its HIRE....not higher..

2- What are your qualifications to determine what is an unsafe condition?
Are you licenced and bonded with the State of OK as an inspector?

3- Oh screw it...I could go on, but I am afraid that it might be beyond
your
comphrension skills since YOU let the work be done to your home, and didnt
stop it...and choose now to whine..




To help with glare turn down your brightness on moniter , it's the
setting
that resembles a sun with a minus sign on one side and a plus sign on
the
other..........



Actually Jackass, its not. I suggest that if you are that ****ing
brilliant,
you look at what the brightness setting on a T40 is, and how you set it.
I also suggest that you learn how in hell to use a digital camera, since
you
plain suck ass at it, and THAT, sir, is a fact, and I dont have to assume
****.


Oh...dont like it?
So sue me....LOL
You are out to sue everyone else....of course, its prob the ONLY way you
will ever have more than you do...LOL

I hope that all those people listed on your site know about it....and if
they dont...they will...LOL





All thoughts presented are based upon the assinine way that the original
poster presented himself, and in the manner that his page represents him.
As a ****tard that wants to whine and cry, even about an inspector using
his
TV as a table...lol...oh my god..thats hilarious...not the fact it
happened,
the fact that he found a way to bitch about it..














"Peter Swinson" wrote in message
news:3aAYa.91304$o%2.40854@sccrnsc02...
I have seen these pans crack in the center where the injection
molding
circles are. Don't try to repair it because it will recrack.
Replace
the
coil.
"CBHvac" wrote in message
news
"Gary M" wrote in message
...
I really hope someone will be able to help me here; I own a 99
Oakwood
home with a Intertherm/Nordyne HVAC unit. The coils of the
unit
are
in
an 'A' configuration and sit in a plastic tray which rests
over
the
blower cabinet. Ostensibly, this is to catch the condensate
and
drain
it away via a hose which leads outside.

That part we all know..its a standard slap in...the way that
Oakwood
and
every other mobile home maker wanted that used that crappy
Nordyne
set
up.


This part of it works fine and
I have cleared the hose more than once.
The problem I have is this; A lot of the water doesn't reach
the
drain hose. Instead, it leaks down into and onto the blower
equipment
below. This has led to the sequencer and the cicuit breaker
shorting
out and they have been replaced. The repairman told me that
the
drain
had gotten clogged, but that is not the case now. The water
seems
to
be coming from some other part of the tray. Before I get
another
serviceman out here to tell me, "Your drain hose was clogged.
That'll
be $xx.xx." I would like to know if there is another cause and
better
still, if there is something 'I' can do about it without
having
to
dismantle the entire cooling system.
Thanks in advance,
-Gary M-


Well...since we deal with this about once a week in a setup
like
yours,
offer a few suggestions...

did the last service tech seal the pan to the blower compartment
with
either
a foam tape that is applied to the top of the blower that the A
coil
assembly sets on, or with a good quality metal tape around the
sides,
or
a
combination of both?

did the last service tech insure that after he cleaned the
drain,
that
the
coil blower and coil had a slight tilt towards the drain? Did he
put
a
level
on it? Was it dead level? IF it was, its should NOT be on
those..

Does your system have a proper condensate trap on the drain
line?
If

not,
it
needs one, or the unit, IF sealed properly, might not be
draining
until
the
unit shuts down and you are getting water not so much leaking,
but
being
pulled into the works..

Did they speed the fan up trying to get better air flow, instead
of
properly
balancing your single duct line? In other words....has someone
put
that
sucker on high, and opened all your vents in the triler? If so,
its
all
wrong, and you are not getting the cooling you need, and should
have...and
the air flow could be such that the condensate is being
literally
stripped
off the coil before it can flow into the pan.


Those are normally plastic pans in the coil assembly, and under
normal
circumstances, you will need to replace the coil long before the
pan
gives
you any trouble. IF the rear or front of the A coils covers have
rusted
out,
its possible that the coil is getting water pulled over the lip
of
the
pan
that way...