On Wednesday, April 21, 2021 at 7:11:48 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 21 Apr 2021 05:32:53 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 20, 2021 at 5:46:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 14:20:22 -0700 (PDT), Sid 03
wrote:

On Tuesday, April 20, 2021 at 2:29:47 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, April 20, 2021 at 2:14:12 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 17:30:05 -0700 (PDT), Dean Hoffman posted for all of us to
digest...

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 7:22:28 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 6:18:47 PM UTC-5, Sid 03 wrote:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 6:12:40 PM UTC-5, Sid 03 wrote:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 5:15:10 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Sid 03 writes:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 1:25:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt=20
wrote:=20
=20
On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:=20
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our ho=
use where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are no=
n-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be install=
ed with the insulation no closer than 3".=20
=20
How do you keep the insulation away ?=20
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that aro=
und each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylin=
der to be placed around each light ?=20
=20
Any help is appreciated.=20
Thank You.=20
=20
=20
If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you=
=20
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk=
=20
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the=
=20
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about=
=20
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs=
=20
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started=20
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even=
=20
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again=
=20
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I=20
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)
In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed=20
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.=20
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

That's good info, but we have already installed about 8 of these lights on =
the first floor and working, now she wants some on the 2nd floor, so I had =
to buy what matched (what she wanted)
Yes, I can get in the attic and get to the lights from above. =20
Q: If I do use boxes pre-built or I-built, would you just build 4 sides an=
d box it in, or 4 sides and a cover/Top ? (maybe drill a couple of 3/4 hol=
es to let some heat escape)
four sides. leave the top open. make sure the sides are high enough
if you have blown insulation.
Scott: My concern is that if cold attic air was able to be in contact with the ceiling around the light, it could cool the ceiling to the point that it could start to sweat (condensate and drip)
It was gfre.. that mentioned that prefabbed boxes were available for this purpose.
Dean: That's a little overkill, might work. probably not deep enough.
Looks like people are building there own boxes:
https://protradecraft.s3.amazonaws.c...x-IMG_1601.jpg
Found some pre-fab units, Kinda expensive ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25493171291...889646dc7e616b

https://www.cancoverit.com/cancoveri...iversal-series

What would a 2 1/2 gallon gas can cost? Would a 1 gallon be deep enough?
Full or empty?

--
Tekkie
I was thinking he could cut the bottom out then set the can over the light. Take the
cap off for ventilation. Spray paint it green to be environmentally correct.

Possible Solution: https://www.menards.com/main/storeit...=1444444944460

That looks like a winner

The key to these things is you just need to know what the thing you're looking for
is called. Once you know that you know what to search for. I just went through that
with my gas grill renovation. I need two little widgets that go on after the two big
wheels to hold them on. I've seen them many times, never knew what they were
called. They are the washer kind of thing, with teeth on the inside, where you push
it over a rod or shaft and then spring tension keeps it there. I had no idea what they
are called. Turns out it's called a push on lock star washer or fastener.. Now I just
have to hope that Lowes has it, already tried HD. HD has greatly reduced their section
where they have things like this in drawers. Lowes has more, but many times
when you find the drawer, most of it is empty, the rest is all jumbled up, all kinds
of wrong sizes, wrong widgets, mixed in. I'd gladly pay more for this stuff if they
used the money to hire a part time kid to keep it stocked and orderly.
I would go to Ace Hardware for that. They are locally owned and far
more responsive to the needs of local people.


I mostly avoid the local Ace like the plague. They insist on "helping" you when you
don't need help and they know nothing. One idiot that I hate the most gave me a
big lecture on the wonders of Sharkbite fittings, when I wasn't even looking for
a fitting. I needed a simple water pressure gauge, which of course they didn't
have. He also told me that the municipal water pressure is 4 PSI and that he does
repairs at the local school. HD is 7 miles farther, but they have a much better
selection, lower prices and no idiots pestering me.