On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 19:28:41 -0700 (PDT), Sid 03 posted for all of us to
digest...


On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 8:28:04 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 16:18:43 -0700 (PDT), Sid 03
wrote:

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 6:12:40 PM UTC-5, Sid 03 wrote:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 5:15:10 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Sid 03 writes:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 1:25:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt=20
wrote:=20
=20
On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:=20
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our ho=
use where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are no=
n-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be install=
ed with the insulation no closer than 3".=20
=20
How do you keep the insulation away ?=20
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that aro=
und each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylin=
der to be placed around each light ?=20
=20
Any help is appreciated.=20
Thank You.=20
=20
=20
If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you=
=20
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk=
=20
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the=
=20
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about=
=20
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs=
=20
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started=20
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even=
=20
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again=
=20
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I=20
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)
In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed=20
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.=20
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

That's good info, but we have already installed about 8 of these lights on =
the first floor and working, now she wants some on the 2nd floor, so I had =
to buy what matched (what she wanted)
Yes, I can get in the attic and get to the lights from above. =20
Q: If I do use boxes pre-built or I-built, would you just build 4 sides an=
d box it in, or 4 sides and a cover/Top ? (maybe drill a couple of 3/4 hol=
es to let some heat escape)
four sides. leave the top open. make sure the sides are high enough
if you have blown insulation.
Scott: My concern is that if cold attic air was able to be in contact with the ceiling around the light, it could cool the ceiling to the point that it could start to sweat (condensate and drip)
It was gfre.. that mentioned that prefabbed boxes were available for this purpose.
Dean: That's a little overkill, might work. probably not deep enough.

Looks like people are building there own boxes:
https://protradecraft.s3.amazonaws.c...x-IMG_1601.jpg

The last time I saw it done they used scraps of duct board I assume
they pulled out of the dumpster. That was a while ago and not my job
but I was shadowing another inspector. They did what Scott said and
left the top open. The question then became how the structural guy was
going to feel about the lack of draft stopping and insulation but that
wasn't our call.
That was the last time I saw a non-IC can in new construction. I
suspect the E-Codes made that unattractive. Now they just pack them in
with insulation.

Those two items I posted are expensive, no matter where you buy them !
Option B may just be a piece of foam-board for $15 and cut and duct-tape my own together ?!

Foam board? Nah

--
Tekkie