On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:30:13 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 12:45:19 -0400, Pinocchio Psaki
wrote:

On 4/10/21 9:56 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

Paint it a combo of CCP red and yellow and DNC blue.
Did you think to look up the directions for the paint on the
internet? It clearly points out the multi-step heat cure process.

You're right, it's in the technical data sheet:

DRY & RECOAT TIMES
Sprays: Dries to touch in 30 minutes and to handle in 1-2
hours. Allow paint to dry for 1 hour before heating. In
order to achieve full cure, the coating must be heat cured
at 450ºF for one hour. Product may emit smoke and
harmless odor.

On the can it has exactly the same, without this one key sentence:

"In order to achieve full cure, the coating must be heat cured
at 450ºF for one hour."


Quite stunning that despite this going for many years, it's still this way.
Puts R way down on my list of good suppliers. But like I said,
it's impossible that not heating it leads to some obvious failure in the
short term. The vast majority of people using a high heat product will
just read the label, not go find the TDS. And there have to be a lot of
applications where people spray it both on areas that get to 450F and
areas that are not heated at all. How does one get 450F, even on all
parts of a gas grill firebox without a kiln? The top, no problem, but the
bottom? Supporting parts, etc?