I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 8:56:20 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

The idea of heat treating something implies a kiln. Otherwise the
heat treatment would be uneven. Who owns those?

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 8:56:20 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?
Look at VHT paint.

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:09:50 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 8:56:20 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?
The idea of heat treating something implies a kiln. Otherwise the
heat treatment would be uneven. Who owns those?

Exactly. You could use your oven if the parts are small enough to fit.
If you look at auto high temp paint, that's what they suggest, if the parts
won't get hot in the application. So like brake calipers, you could put those
in your oven. And then for various parts that you can't put in your oven,
who knows how hot various parts actually get in a car or similar?
Like painting a pipe, one end could be a much different temperature than
another. And so far I haven't seen any supplier give more information,
like what are the downsides to it not curing properly, will it peal off or
will it just be less durable, etc. Less durable is far more acceptable than
if it peels off. Lots of questions, no answers. But Rustoleum is something
else. Any complaint at HD, even that it's gray instead of black, stock answer
is that you didn't heat it to cure it, even though the can doesn't say anything
about needing to heat it.

With the gas grill I'm comfortable that the firebox part will get hot enough though
and the cabinet parts I want to paint with a semi-gloss anyway, so that's not an issue.

On 4/10/21 9:56 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

Paint it a combo of CCP red and yellow and DNC blue.

"Dean Hoffman" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 8:56:20 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

The idea of heat treating something implies a kiln. Otherwise
the heat treatment would be uneven. Who owns those?

Those whose hobby is pottery. My dad for one.

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 06:56:16 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 posted for all of us to
digest...


I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

I would call Weber. I had a problem with the squirrels chewing my hose. They
sent a new hose with a "squirrel guard" (spring) on it for free.

--
Tekkie

On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 02:56:40 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

02:56??? LOL And it's trolling time for you ALREADY, you abnoraml senile
cretin?

--
Richard about senile Rodent:
"Rod Speed, a bare faced pig and ignorant ****."
MID:

On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 12:45:19 -0400, Pinocchio Psaki
wrote:

On 4/10/21 9:56 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

Paint it a combo of CCP red and yellow and DNC blue.
Did you think to look up the directions for the paint on the
internet? It clearly points out the multi-step heat cure process.

On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:30:13 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 12:45:19 -0400, Pinocchio Psaki
wrote:

On 4/10/21 9:56 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

Paint it a combo of CCP red and yellow and DNC blue.
Did you think to look up the directions for the paint on the
internet? It clearly points out the multi-step heat cure process.

You're right, it's in the technical data sheet:

DRY & RECOAT TIMES
Sprays: Dries to touch in 30 minutes and to handle in 1-2
hours. Allow paint to dry for 1 hour before heating. In
order to achieve full cure, the coating must be heat cured
at 450ºF for one hour. Product may emit smoke and
harmless odor.

On the can it has exactly the same, without this one key sentence:

"In order to achieve full cure, the coating must be heat cured
at 450ºF for one hour."


Quite stunning that despite this going for many years, it's still this way.
Puts R way down on my list of good suppliers. But like I said,
it's impossible that not heating it leads to some obvious failure in the
short term. The vast majority of people using a high heat product will
just read the label, not go find the TDS. And there have to be a lot of
applications where people spray it both on areas that get to 450F and
areas that are not heated at all. How does one get 450F, even on all
parts of a gas grill firebox without a kiln? The top, no problem, but the
bottom? Supporting parts, etc?

On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 9:27:19 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 11:30:13 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 12:45:19 -0400, Pinocchio Psaki
wrote:

On 4/10/21 9:56 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I have a 15 year old Weber Genesis Gold gas grill. Overall, it's in very
good shape. The burners, flame spreader bars and stainless steel
grills are in good shape. But the outside parts that are painted black
has weathered. So, I'm going to spray paint it and hopefully it will look
real good again. A similar new one would be $600+, so I think it's
well worthwhile. The hood and front doors below are stainless and
still look good. But I'm considering painting those red or green for
a different look. So, what needs to be painted for sure is the lower
black metal cabinet that doesn't get hot and the black firebox and
edges of the hood that do get hot. And optionally a color for the
hood and doors.

So far I'm headed towards Rustoleum High Heat in flat black for
the firebox and edges of the hood. And Rustoleum Semi Gloss
regular paint for the cabinet. Here is the interesting and weird
part. Looking at reviews at Home Depot, most people are reporting
that the high heat product works, but there are many that have had
problems, ranging from what is supposed to be black looking gray
or the paint not adhering, even though they did extensive and
apparently correct prep. And all those negative reviews get a
response from Rustoleum saying that their high heat paint needs
to be cured at like 400F for an hour for it to work properly. And
every one of those posters points out that it does not say that on
the product instructions on the can. This has been going on for
years, no further explanation from R. It certainly has lowered my
opinion of Rustoleum. Every person that has any problem with the
paint, that's the answer, basically it's your fault, you didn't properly
heat cure it, even though nowhere except in the HD reviews does
R tell you that you need to do that.

I also find it hard to believe that it really
needs to be cured at 400F, because without that on the can, there
would be like 90% failure rate. That's because most people would
think it could be applied anywhere, not just high temp locations and
part of plenty of applications would never get much heat. You would
buy one can of high temp paint and use it on other parts too. On the
other hand, looking at high temp paints from other suppliers, I see
that there are ones that are ceramic based that do require high
temp curing. But those spell it out in the directions.

So, IDK, very confusing. I think I'm OK because the high heat product
will go where there is considerable heat and the rest I'll do with
regular paint. That was kind of driven by the fact that I think a
flat looks OK on the firebox, but I want semi-gloss on the cabinet.
If I decide to paint the stainless hood red or green, I'm looking at
Duplicolor high temp auto paint as that's the only decent colors,
reg, blue or green that I can find in high temp product.

So, any experience or advice ? What do you make of R and the
heat curing, but it's not in the directions?

Paint it a combo of CCP red and yellow and DNC blue.
Did you think to look up the directions for the paint on the
internet? It clearly points out the multi-step heat cure process.
You're right, it's in the technical data sheet:

DRY & RECOAT TIMES
Sprays: Dries to touch in 30 minutes and to handle in 1-2
hours. Allow paint to dry for 1 hour before heating. In
order to achieve full cure, the coating must be heat cured
at 450ºF for one hour. Product may emit smoke and
harmless odor.

On the can it has exactly the same, without this one key sentence:

"In order to achieve full cure, the coating must be heat cured
at 450ºF for one hour."


Quite stunning that despite this going for many years, it's still this way.
Puts R way down on my list of good suppliers. But like I said,
it's impossible that not heating it leads to some obvious failure in the
short term. The vast majority of people using a high heat product will
just read the label, not go find the TDS. And there have to be a lot of
applications where people spray it both on areas that get to 450F and
areas that are not heated at all. How does one get 450F, even on all
parts of a gas grill firebox without a kiln? The top, no problem, but the
bottom? Supporting parts, etc?

Project update. I've got all the paint figured out:

Firebox - Rustoleum High Heat Black, Satin/flat

Hood Outside - VHT Caliper Paint, Red

Cabinet frame - Regular Rustoleum Black, Semigloss

Wheel hubcap, - White gloss, can of old marine enamel I already have from the boat.

The Rustoleum HH is supposed to be heat cured at I think it was 400F.
The VHT is supposed to be heat cured at 200F. I easily do the VHT on the
hood. The firebox, most of it I can probably get to 400F, not sure about the
lower parts, but it will be what it will be.

Only did the hubcap so far, came out great. Have to get going or probably
delay it a month. Tree pollen will be coming down. I decided to take it apart
to paint it, at least that's the plan. Looks like 1 bolt holds the firebox, it was
badly shot, I snapped it off and that end now lifts free. Other end has two
bolts that hold the burners in. Thanks to all for the advice, I'll post again
on how it comes out.

So I had some time to work on this. I decided to take it mostly apart, eg remove
the firebox from the cabinet to be better able to paint it right. I was surprised
how easy that was. Only three bolts. Two hold the burners in, those nuts loosened
right up, burners came out, they are in great shape. The other bolt was on the
other side and it holds the firebox to the frame. It was badly rusted, is sheared
off. But that allowed me to remove the firebox. I soaked the remains of the
bolt with PB Blaster, waited a few hours and I was able to loosen and remove it.

I progressed to the first paint operation, which was to use the VHT Caliper Paint
on the hood and doors. They say to do two light coats followed by a med wet
coat. Recoats are to be done within an hour or after 7 DAYS. 7 days? And after
painting it needs to be heated to 200F for 30 mins to cure it. So I tried to do what
it said. It was windy, was forecast to be windy for like the next several days and
tree pollen will be coming down soon, so I decided to do it in the basement.
I set up a halogen work light, but even so, lighting was far from what it would have
been outside, where you can see much better. As I was putting on the medium
coat, coat number 3, there were spots that looked glossy, others that looked
flatter. I tried putting down more paint, didn't seem to change it that much.
At that point, I didn't know what was going on. Was this just one area drying faster
than another and it would even out? Put on more paint? But then I was worried
about too much, runs, etc. They always tell you that several light coats are better
than one heavier....

It didn't matter much at that point because I only had one can of paint. It claimed
to be enough for 15 sq ft, at this is just a medium size gas grill hood and two
front doors for the cabinet. But at this point, I was almost out of paint, not
enough to do a heavier coat on the whole thing. So I stopped and waited to see
what happened. Which was mostly nothing, it dried about how it looked. Some
spots rich, glossy, others dull looking like a satin finish. More surface looking
satin than glossy. My conclusion is that even though this was supposed to be
enough paint for 15 sq ft, it needed more paint. I'm hopeful that one more heavier
coat, getting it all wet looking, is the solution. The good news is that the color
is awesome and it doesn't look like I have to fix it, start over, etc.

But then there is the usual lacking information on the instructions and how to
proceed. As noted above, it says that after being painted, to achieve full cure
it needs to be heated to 200F for 30 mins. Nothing about having to wait to
do that. It also says that to re-coat you need to do it within an hour or else
wait 7 days. I've never seen 7 days before for anything, usually it's 24 or 48 hours.
The issue there is that if you do it quickly, the coats behave like one when
drying/curing. But if you do it beyond that, the first coat is partially cured and
the fresh paint on top interferes with it curing correctly. So you have to wait
until the first coat is fully dry/cured.

With current scheduling I have no need to do anything for at least 3 days.
So the question now is how to proceed? I see a few choices:

A - Wait 7 days, then re-coat, let dry and then cure at 200F.

B - Cure now, wait 7 days, then re-coat, let dry, cure again.

C - Cure now, re-coat anytime, which would be at least 2 days from now,
3 days from first coat, cure again. Figuring that curing accelerates
the process, so it's cured, no need to wait 7 more days.

Opinions?

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 8:35:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
So I had some time to work on this. I decided to take it mostly apart, eg remove
the firebox from the cabinet to be better able to paint it right. I was surprised
how easy that was. Only three bolts. Two hold the burners in, those nuts loosened
right up, burners came out, they are in great shape. The other bolt was on the
other side and it holds the firebox to the frame. It was badly rusted, is sheared
off. But that allowed me to remove the firebox. I soaked the remains of the
bolt with PB Blaster, waited a few hours and I was able to loosen and remove it.

I progressed to the first paint operation, which was to use the VHT Caliper Paint
on the hood and doors. They say to do two light coats followed by a med wet
coat. Recoats are to be done within an hour or after 7 DAYS. 7 days? And after
painting it needs to be heated to 200F for 30 mins to cure it. So I tried to do what
it said. It was windy, was forecast to be windy for like the next several days and
tree pollen will be coming down soon, so I decided to do it in the basement.
I set up a halogen work light, but even so, lighting was far from what it would have
been outside, where you can see much better. As I was putting on the medium
coat, coat number 3, there were spots that looked glossy, others that looked
flatter. I tried putting down more paint, didn't seem to change it that much.
At that point, I didn't know what was going on. Was this just one area drying faster
than another and it would even out? Put on more paint? But then I was worried
about too much, runs, etc. They always tell you that several light coats are better
than one heavier....

It didn't matter much at that point because I only had one can of paint. It claimed
to be enough for 15 sq ft, at this is just a medium size gas grill hood and two
front doors for the cabinet. But at this point, I was almost out of paint, not
enough to do a heavier coat on the whole thing. So I stopped and waited to see
what happened. Which was mostly nothing, it dried about how it looked. Some
spots rich, glossy, others dull looking like a satin finish. More surface looking
satin than glossy. My conclusion is that even though this was supposed to be
enough paint for 15 sq ft, it needed more paint. I'm hopeful that one more heavier
coat, getting it all wet looking, is the solution. The good news is that the color
is awesome and it doesn't look like I have to fix it, start over, etc.

But then there is the usual lacking information on the instructions and how to
proceed. As noted above, it says that after being painted, to achieve full cure
it needs to be heated to 200F for 30 mins. Nothing about having to wait to
do that. It also says that to re-coat you need to do it within an hour or else
wait 7 days. I've never seen 7 days before for anything, usually it's 24 or 48 hours.
The issue there is that if you do it quickly, the coats behave like one when
drying/curing. But if you do it beyond that, the first coat is partially cured and
the fresh paint on top interferes with it curing correctly. So you have to wait
until the first coat is fully dry/cured.

With current scheduling I have no need to do anything for at least 3 days.
So the question now is how to proceed? I see a few choices:

A - Wait 7 days, then re-coat, let dry and then cure at 200F.

B - Cure now, wait 7 days, then re-coat, let dry, cure again.

C - Cure now, re-coat anytime, which would be at least 2 days from now,
3 days from first coat, cure again. Figuring that curing accelerates
the process, so it's cured, no need to wait 7 more days.

Opinions?

So I sprayed the firebox and cabinet yesterday. All came out excellent. With the
Rustoleum enamel for the cabint, mindful of the previous experience with the VHT
paint, I first tried to get it on wet looking. Soon as it was wet looking it ran. Fortunately
I did that in a small, non critical area first. So I just wiped it off. Will go back later
sand it and recoat. That reminded me why with the VHT I was reluctant to put enough
on to make it look smooth and wet. That's what typically happens with spray cans paint,
if it gets wet looking it runs.

So I'm going to wait a few days and then decide what to do with the hood and doors.
Currently thinking is to lightly sand, then cure in oven and recoat. They say to wait
7 days, but I might try it on a door sooner, see what happens. I also did some more
googling and found people saying that if you have glossy sections and rougher looking
ones, it means that the paint was drying before it hit. That could be, but I did this
at around 55F and 60% humidity, so you wouldn't think it would be drying before it
hit. IDK, all very confusing..... If one more can of VHT fixes the hood and doors
I'll be very happy.

On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 07:34:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


So I sprayed the firebox and cabinet yesterday. All came out excellent. With the
Rustoleum enamel for the cabint, mindful of the previous experience with the VHT
paint, I first tried to get it on wet looking. Soon as it was wet looking it ran

When you are shooting paint, you need lots of light coats, not all at
once. That is certain to run.

On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:25:23 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 07:34:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


So I sprayed the firebox and cabinet yesterday. All came out excellent. With the
Rustoleum enamel for the cabint, mindful of the previous experience with the VHT
paint, I first tried to get it on wet looking. Soon as it was wet looking it ran
When you are shooting paint, you need lots of light coats, not all at
once. That is certain to run.

That's what I thought and have been doing for year. But the VHT directions said do two light
coats followed by one medium wet coat. And it didn't run, even in the spots that came
out glossy, so IDK, being high temp paint, maybe it's thicker and more run resistant.
Of course next time when I put it on heavier, I wouldn't be surprised if it did run.
Even if the theory that the non-glossy areas are caused by it drying before it hits,
that means you need to spray closer, which can lead to runs too. Also I did this in the
basement, where it was about 55F, so it's not like it was 85F where you'd expect it to
dry very fast.

My current thinking is to wait at least a couple more days, then lightly sand one of the
doors, then re-coat it, wait a day, then cure it in the oven and see what happens.
Figures that the part I'm having trouble with, the hood and doors are the most
visible parts too. The back of the cabinet looks great.

On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:27:01 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:25:23 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 07:34:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


So I sprayed the firebox and cabinet yesterday. All came out excellent. With the
Rustoleum enamel for the cabint, mindful of the previous experience with the VHT
paint, I first tried to get it on wet looking. Soon as it was wet looking it ran
When you are shooting paint, you need lots of light coats, not all at
once. That is certain to run.
That's what I thought and have been doing for year. But the VHT directions said do two light
coats followed by one medium wet coat. And it didn't run, even in the spots that came
out glossy, so IDK, being high temp paint, maybe it's thicker and more run resistant.
Of course next time when I put it on heavier, I wouldn't be surprised if it did run.
Even if the theory that the non-glossy areas are caused by it drying before it hits,
that means you need to spray closer, which can lead to runs too. Also I did this in the
basement, where it was about 55F, so it's not like it was 85F where you'd expect it to
dry very fast.

My current thinking is to wait at least a couple more days, then lightly sand one of the
doors, then re-coat it, wait a day, then cure it in the oven and see what happens.
Figures that the part I'm having trouble with, the hood and doors are the most
visible parts too. The back of the cabinet looks great.

What about making it all look rough on purpose? After all, anyone can
buy a grill with a smooth finish.

On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:34:21 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:27:01 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:25:23 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 07:34:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


So I sprayed the firebox and cabinet yesterday. All came out excellent. With the
Rustoleum enamel for the cabint, mindful of the previous experience with the VHT
paint, I first tried to get it on wet looking. Soon as it was wet looking it ran
When you are shooting paint, you need lots of light coats, not all at
once. That is certain to run.
That's what I thought and have been doing for year. But the VHT directions said do two light
coats followed by one medium wet coat. And it didn't run, even in the spots that came
out glossy, so IDK, being high temp paint, maybe it's thicker and more run resistant.
Of course next time when I put it on heavier, I wouldn't be surprised if it did run.
Even if the theory that the non-glossy areas are caused by it drying before it hits,
that means you need to spray closer, which can lead to runs too. Also I did this in the
basement, where it was about 55F, so it's not like it was 85F where you'd expect it to
dry very fast.

My current thinking is to wait at least a couple more days, then lightly sand one of the
doors, then re-coat it, wait a day, then cure it in the oven and see what happens.
Figures that the part I'm having trouble with, the hood and doors are the most
visible parts too. The back of the cabinet looks great.
What about making it all look rough on purpose? After all, anyone can
buy a grill with a smooth finish.

I think smooth, mirror glossy looks much better, it's what's on new grills. Plus unless
I change to some different paint, IDK how to get that with the VHT Caliper Paint.
Some areas came out glossy, others dull, IDK how to make it all dull. Maybe spraying
from further away, so that it partially dries before it hits would achieve that, but I'm
going to try for the smooth, mirror look. If that fails, then maybe.

Seems no one has opinions on whether to wait the full 7 days, whether to bake before
re-coating or after. Given the weather and scheduling possibilities, I think I will give
it a shot on Tue or Wed. That would be 4 or 5 days. It's been curing where it's ~65F.
I can put the three parts out in the sun now too, that should help. You would think a
good day in the sun would be worth a couple at 60F, which is their minimum to apply
it. They don't say anything about curing time between coats versus temperature,
just to wait 7 days to re-coat.

On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 7:44:11 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

So my conclusion is VHT paint, specifically their caliper paint, SUCKS. After one coat,
it came out with some spots beautiful, smooth, high gloss, mirror like, spots right next
to it rougher, looking like rough semi-gloss. I did that first coat in the basement where it
was harder to see, figured it was due to not enough paint in the spots where it came
out rough.

But here's what happened with the second attempt. I lightly sanded it then tried again.
This time I held the can much closer and tried to get a wet coat on all of it. They say
to do two light coats, then a med wet coat, whatever that means. It was
still extremely difficult. It takes a lot of paint in one spot to get it to smooth out and
it it dries very quickly. I think that is the essence of the problem, it just dries too fast.
It did come out better, but still clearly unacceptable. Even the doors, which are only
about 18 x 18 didn't come out even, they are blotchy, gloss here, rough there.
And I did it when it was 75F this time, outside, last fail was in the basement that was 55F.

So, I'm going to switch to Duplicolor. The cabinet using Rustoleum regular enamel
and the firebox using Rustoleum High Heat both came out excellen, no complaints
there. And one can did the cabinet, one can the firebox. I bought two cans of that
VHT crap that's supposed to cover 12 sq ft and it's still a hot mess. My choice of
VHT was mainly because the caliper paint is rated to 900F, while other paints are
only good to 500F. But 500F is probably good enough for the lid. $18 down the drain,
plus the wasted time.