In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 03 Apr 2021 17:28:10 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 03 Apr 2021 15:40:31 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 3 Apr 2021 14:26:36 -0400, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:

On 4/3/2021 12:37 PM, micky wrote:
I know it's not the same vendor -- Wait, it is the SAME vendor -- so how
is it that on ebay there is one Denso ignition pack for a 2005 3.3L
Toyota engine for $70, and a 6-pack for $158?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-OEM-DE...6/392934898333

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pack-OEM-...E/233707357463


One says Toyota, the other says Lexus. Could be the same but you pay for
the single versus bulk pack?

BTW, I can't even get at the rear 3 ignition coils without taking out
the intake manifold and lots of little things.

It runs smoothly, as nice as ever afaict. Has plenty of acceleration and
power.

I erased the codes (cyls 1, 2, and random) and I'll wait to see if they
come back. (of course, they will.)

What is the price at a typucal auto parts store?
Chasing the o2 sensor problem and coil problem on the same car???

That combination of problems really scared me last night, and I had just
about given in and was going to take it somewhere, until I thought, It's
gonna cost me 1000 dollars or more.

The P0171 and P0174 started last year and the misfire problem, P0300,
P0301, P0302**, I only learned about yesterday. Last year, for the lean
mixture, I clenaed the MAF sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, replaced the
MAF sensor, replaced the PCV valve, inspected the air cleaner (which was
very clean), looked at length for vacuum leaks, inspected that big
plastic pipe from air cleanner to the next boxy thing, and maybe
something else.

**Actually, the Maintenannce dash light went on about 4 months ago, but
I didn't read the codes again at that time. Are the misfires really
going to damage my engine like one webpage said? So far it seems to run
the same.

I didn't check the fuel pump or filter or injectors, but the car had and
has loads of power and acceleration. Its only bad symptom is that it
stumbles a little as I leave a stop sign. But if I handle my foot just
right and don't try to get a jack-rabbit start, I can even avoid that.
Still, it's definitely a problem.

I figured since it has so much power and other-than-from-stopped easy
acceleration, it's not the fuel pump or filter or injectors. ?? And
there is no nipple on this car to connect a fuel pressure gauge.

That left the O2 sensors but I was in idiot mode and thought I should be
suspecting the downstream sensors which are both hard to replace without
a lift or at least ramps on flat ground. I read the meterial again and
IIUC it's the upstream sensors that matter here, and one of those is
easy to change. (The rear one is behind the engine, have to remove the
intake manifold etc. I think. I am scared to even start that.)

OTOH, since it's both banks, maybe there is some common cause but
unrelated to banks. OT3H, since both sensors are original and were 15
years old, maybe they both wore out.

99.999% chance it is neither the coil OR the O2 sensor. You most
likely have a small vacuum leak somewhere. Take it to a real mechanic

When this problem first started, I spend a lot of time looking for a
vacuum leak. I checked every hose and hose connection. They were all
firm and none were brittle. Then I didn't want to spray brake cleaner
like was suggested, so went around with an unlit but open propane torch,
sticking it everywhere I could find and waiting for the idle speed to
increase. It never did.

Just now I read that brake cleaner doesn't leave residue like I thought
it did. Should I start again looking for vacuum leaks with brake
cleaner?

Is there something else to do?

and save yourelf a lot of aggravation AND money. Your local Toyota

I don't want to waste money, but I like wasting aggravation. That's one
way to learn, and to learn without ever forgetting. And the weather has
just started to be beautiful. Time spent working outside on the car,
even if you don't fix it, has to be better for your health and your
mood than time spent in front of a PC monitor.

dealer has likely dealt with exactly the same problem before and will
know EXACTLY where to look for the problem and how to fix it. Even a

That's a good idea, except, on the previous Toyota, after I replaced the
broken right front axle, broken brake rotor, broken rim, and one related
part that I forget, I took it to the local Toyota for a wheel alignment
and they tried to cheat me. They claimed that CV boots on BOTH sides
needed replacing. After they wrote this, I jacked the left side up and
went over that side carefully and couldln't find even a crack, let alone
a rip, and the right side was new with only 30 miles on it.

Plus they said I had a substantial oil leak, even though I never or
almost never had to add oil (even afterwards) and I think they had a
couple other complaints which didn't ring true.

Tbey've been bought out since then, but I have no special reason to
think they are any more honest. They probably kept the same mechanics
mostly and if they still get incentives for selling repairs, whoever
lied to me last time will still lie to me.

And they have it set up so you don't even see the mechanic or the shop.
You take the car to a biggg carport, get out, and some auto-jockey
drives it around to the other side of the building to a shop with 20 or
more bigg bays. So someone with compunctions who might not be able to
lie to my face has it easier; he only has to lie to a piece of paper.

What should I do?


GOOD independent will at least know how to troubleshoot it even if
he's never seen the exact issue before.

That's a possibility, but I still want to try myself. I think because
I've had fewer home or car repairs needed, until this one, and I spend
my time fiddling with Windows instead of something physical, I've gained
weight.