On Sun, 14 Feb 2021 10:20:53 -0500, Jack wrote:

On 2/13/2021 4:47 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 13, 2021 at 3:05:26 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 13 Feb 2021 10:23:53 -0500, Jack wrote:

On 2/12/2021 6:26 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2021 14:45:51 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/12/2021 11:25 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2021 09:29:12 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/11/2021 2:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 11, 2021 at 1:55:09 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/11/2021 11:02 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 11, 2021 at 11:22:23 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2021 4:41 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 9, 2021 at 2:39:32 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2021 10:43 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 9, 2021 at 9:01:36 AM UTC-5, StevenWoodward wrote:
Built this clip-on infeed support, and found it to be very handy when using sleds, , to stop the sled falling off the front of table saw.
It provides most of the benefits of an infeed table, and still allows me to move my body right up to the front of saw.

Here is a video showing how it works and how to make one: https://youtu.be/pp-9-CZes2I
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/18gz


Grab your router and add a miter gauge slot.

You do not need a miter bar slot. Place on the outside of the miter
slots or between.

It isn't a "need", it's more of a "might as well".

For the simple step of routing the slot, you get solid support for
both sides of a miter gauge. You can set it on there and walk away.

Izzy Swan likes having one, and he uses a SawStop, so he's pretty smart. ;-)

https://d2j6dbq0eux0bg.cloudfront.ne...1667131895.jpg



I will have to disagree. Little support is actually needed unless you
are cutting very wide, and in that case you don't need a sled.

I'm a bit confused by that response. I mentioned full support of the *miter gauge* as
shown in the Izzy Swan image that I linked to. You mentioned the lack of need of a
sled. I'm not seeing the connection between my comment and yours.
Well. ;~) every miter gauge should have a decent length fence... But
if you are not using a fence with your miter gauge I guess a slot might
work out better.

With that said, the OP was talking about a sled, not a miter gauge as
you have now pointed out.

umm...I pointed out the miter gauge 2 days ago.

In any case, as long as I'm going through the trouble to make one, I'd probably
just add the slot before sweeping up. I just don't see any downside...unless I
screw up the slot.

Maybe I should add the slot first. ;-)

I must'a missed the miter gauge comment...

Anyway, this reminds me of the debate 15~20 years ago about the need for
the out feed table miter slot. Does it need to be a precise fit or
simply somewhere for the miter gauge bar to exit.

The answer is wider than the bar. The miter gauge is way past needing
to be guided once past the blade.

On the front side however I think you need to have the slot as accurate
as the miter slot on the TS slots, especially if guiding stock wider
than the distance from the front of the saw table top to the front of
the blade.

Longer bar? Particularly on a sled. I don't see cutting or lining up
the infeed table as accurately as the miter slot is to the blade.
Unless it is, I don't see the purpose of making it the same size other
than to bind the bar.





There have been times when I've wanted to cut a board, with my miter gauge, that was
wider than the distance between the front of my TS and the front of the blade. The
slotted infeed table that I linked to would mitigate that situation quite nicely.

As I said earlier, it's not a need, but I see no reason not to add the slot. It only makes the
infeed table more versatile. I certainly don't see any downside.


No down side other than having to do it and do it so that it indexes
accurately to the TS slot..

Don't see it being accurate enough to matter and perhaps make the
situation worse.



Copy pasted form one of my other replies....



So normally I would agree if using the slot for support on the back side.

The front side is a different matter.

Most miter gauge bars need to be fully engaged in the TS miter slot to
travel parallel to the blade. The further, out in front of the TS top,
that the miter gauge face or fence is, the more it will wobble and or
not be square to the blade. If the the miter bar is out on the
improvised support it is likely going to be guiding a piece of wood that
requires it to be out there. You need that slot to be accurately for
that purpose.

I hear you but that requires that the infeed slot be perfectly aligned
with the TS slot. It's easy to do with an outfeed table because it
can be aligned and bolted to the TS. I wouldn't think it would be so
easy with one of these "infeed tables". They'd be hard to align and
move during use. It would seem that the answer would be a longer bar
and/or one with better alignment to the slot along its length.

More dumbness from the guy that can't cut a straight line.
Has anyone told you that you're an asshole. Let me join the
multitudes.

The out feed table can have a wider slot that the table slot because it
does nothing other than let the miter gauge bar slide though the cut. It
is not there for alignment of anything.
You really are an illiterate idiot.
This infeed table can easily be aligned simply by engaging the miter
gauge bar partially in the both slots before clamping.Do you even own a
table saw?
Yup. Illiterate.

The first 2 rules of usenet:

1 - Don't feed the trolls.
2 - Ignore Rule #1 because trolls are major assholes and will keep coming
back even if you ignore them.

Since ignoring them doesn't make any difference, you might as well have fun
pointing out their ass-holiness.

Neither one of you fools have a clue about woodworking, and even less
about what makes an internet troll a troll.

Yep, a troll.

Simply calling someone an asshole is not how you point out one is an
asshole.

I see you know your name.

snipped due to boredom