Thread: Finishing Oak.
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Tim Lamb[_2_] Tim Lamb[_2_] is offline
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Default Finishing Oak.

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes

snip

Tim: How I apply oil is this.

A small pad of kitchen roll with a little oil applied and then rubbed
in to the wood.

No drips, no spillage. no need for anything beyond masking tape


OK. My previous experience is limited to winter coating stored outdoor
furniture where drips/overcoating not an issue.

The manufacturers recommendation is to use a natural hair brush and
then wipe off any visible excess after a couple of hours.

I'm still at the preparation stage as matching the paint for the
plaster repairs is not as easy as reading the labels on the tins left
over by the decorators might be imagined:-(


Ri-ight! The job is more or less done. Glass to put back and some
cleaning to do.

Lessons learned... wiping off the excess is an absolute essential and
even more essential with the second coat. Luckily I have a stock of
disposable rubber gloves left over from the glass fibre roofing job.

Planning. Stairs by their nature and purpose present problems not found
with finishing furniture that you can walk around.

Lighting. Quite a problem in a smallish hall and vital to ensure a full
coating. I used a 250 Watt halogen plus the domestic stuff and still
found hard to see corners. Some sort of diffuse headlamp might have
helped.

Raw door oil. The job is done and looks OK. Without a comparison, it is
difficult to say this is the best product for the job. I wanted to avoid
darkening the Oak and chose this because it has a small amount of white
pigment to offset the normal darkening effect of drying oil.

I will try to put up a photo in due course. Meanwhile a totally
unsolicited compliment to Stairbox who kept exactly to their delivery
promises, were cheaper than two competitors and impressed my carpenters!




--
Tim Lamb