Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
Well all that water vapour has to go somewhere I'd suppose. I recall the
issues with stand alone paraffin heaters in the 60s and 70s where the paint
would end up yellow with the muck. I doubt that would be so bad with gas, as
it can burn purer, but surely you need to have a well ventilated room or the
oxygen levels against toxic gas would soon be rather dangerous. At least
that was whet the shop told us about the ones which ran on bottled gas and
were thus semi portable.
Brian


There is a catalyst up near the top vent of the device,
that converts emitted CO into CO2. You could still
potentially smother, but the appliance is supposed
to have an "oxygen deprivation" sensor. I didn't
see any details on how the "ODS" works.

The CO is still not zero. There is an allowed ratio
of CO to CO2 at the output. The installation manual
does not mention what the room CO level should read
out at (at max fire). The performance check is done
by measuring CO and CO2 and taking a ratio.

"Adverts for the catalytic gas fires..."

https://www.fireplacemegastore.co.uk...less-gas-fires

"Installation manual"

http://www.ekofires.co.uk/files/prod...0D %20ERP.pdf

"This appliance is intended as a secondary source of heat only
and should not be used in a room without some form of background
heating present. If the appliance is used in a room as the sole
source of heat, then condensation may occur on colder surfaces
within the room."

"Max Energy Input 2kW Min Energy Input 1kW"

"Ignition Double Piezo Spark"

"The room size MUST be a minimum of 23 cubic meters"

It also requires an air vent, to allow some mixing of
outside fresh air, with the air in the room. And you can't
stick the vent, too close to the machine (as it throws off
the ODS). How an intake vent works, when there is no exhaust
vent, is left as an exercise for the reader of the installation
manual. It's almost as if some gas standards document calls
out a vent that size, on the assumption the device has a flue.

Paul