"Gerry" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 4 Nov 2020 07:41:37 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
I'm trying to design a sharpening jig for my bandsaw mill blades that uses
hand-held Dremel as a cam-guided router. ...
A Dremel moto tool would be a poor choice for this aplication. I say
this because I just made up a half dozen blades for my 12" band saw
(wood) by silver soldering new and used 1/2" bade stock. I grabbed the
Dremel to clean up the joint after it cooled. On the second blade I
tried a mounted stone in my el-cheapo air powered die grinder and
finished off the five remaining blades in less time than it took for
the first blade. The Dremel just doesn't have the oomph that the die
grinder packs, plus the 1/8" spindled stone is about a quarter or less
the mass of the 1/4" mounted die grinder item.
How did I ever live in my shop before I got my old Gardner-Denver
compressor for $3 and spent ~$75 to get it up and running!
I recently used a Dremel to grind car fender rust spots back to solid metal,
by feel. The stones had a very short life cutting into the edge of sheet
metal, and a chainsaw sharpening stone disintegrated on it. I didn't have a
cylindrical HSS cutter bit to try. The Dremel was very slow grinding down
the back of lumpy old welds in the narrow gap between the fender and wheel
well liner, where the larger bits of my 1/4" die grinder wouldn't fit.
1/4" bits are certainly an option, I have several air and electric tools
that accept them, for grinding welds in tight corners etc. I started
planning around a Dremel because I have one with the conical routing guide
attachment, and its lighter weight should make it easier to guide
accurately. A 12V chain saw grinder with a 3/16" cylindrical diamond bit
might work too, with a suitable router guide, if the bit doesn't wear too
A 1/4" cutter changes the gullet minimum radius and may disqualify the blade
from commercial grinding. The real question is what easily available type
and size of bit should I design for. I don't have a scrap blade to test
cutter bit life on.