On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:03:47 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 26/08/2020 16:36, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:18:03 +0100, newshound
wrote:

Also, does it matter? Can't you attack it from the other side?

No, it's a blind void. And I'm *not* trying to arc weld it to the
floorpan like the other fellah said. I'm planning to jab the shaft up
against the car chassis while it's hooked up to the welding
transformer in the hope that they fuse together under the heavy
current. There is a variation of this technique in common practice in
pro body shops. Here's how it works in principle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy_cVxfaq28

Well it might work although stud welders and spot welders usually rely
on an adjustable timer (or fixed timer and adjustable current). And you
saw how clean the body shop guy got the surface. But I still wonder why
you feel the need to fix it if it is only protruding into a blind void.

Fair point. If you could see it, you would notice it's torn away the
jacking point from the surrounding metal so there's a fissure you can
trace your fingernail though. This is an old classic so the metal is
not as pliable as a new car would be. By the same token, some rusty
holes have opened up on the other side which had it been undamaged,
would not have been apparent. Need to fix these issues, not just for
the sake of completeness, but my conscience!
I can get the area clean no problem, but am inclined to leave it be as
a little resistance would be no bad thing, since it generates a
hot-spot when high current is passed through it, which is in this
instance at least, desirable!