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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

Being unable to obtain one without pre-ordering locally, I've cobbled
up this slide hammer to pull out a ding in the underside of this car I
bought. Some clod had missed the jacking point and ended up pushing up
the floor close to the cross-member the J.P. is mounted to. The
sliding weight should have more than enough grunt to get it out, but
I'm wondering if my scheme will work because I plan to 'weld' the end
of the shaft to the indented part by passing up to 220 amps through it
and thrusting it up against the floorpan, hoping it will stick
sufficiently for me to be able to tap the ding out. I'll turn the
current off as soon as it tacks to the floor, obviously; should only
take a fraction of a second?
I'll be attaching the live cable of an arc welder to the ring-end of
the shaft. The pointy end is shaved down to a flat point of 5mm
diameter. This'll be the part that I hope will fasten itself to the
bottom of the floorpan.

https://yandex.com/collections/card/...6dddf69f0fa62/

Any tips/suggestions as to how to make this idea work most
effectively?
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

Mike McLeod wrote:
Being unable to obtain one without pre-ordering locally, I've cobbled
up this slide hammer to pull out a ding in the underside of this car I
bought. Some clod had missed the jacking point and ended up pushing up
the floor close to the cross-member the J.P. is mounted to. The
sliding weight should have more than enough grunt to get it out, but
I'm wondering if my scheme will work because I plan to 'weld' the end
of the shaft to the indented part by passing up to 220 amps through it
and thrusting it up against the floorpan, hoping it will stick
sufficiently for me to be able to tap the ding out. I'll turn the
current off as soon as it tacks to the floor, obviously; should only
take a fraction of a second?
I'll be attaching the live cable of an arc welder to the ring-end of
the shaft. The pointy end is shaved down to a flat point of 5mm
diameter. This'll be the part that I hope will fasten itself to the
bottom of the floorpan.

https://yandex.com/collections/card/...6dddf69f0fa62/

Any tips/suggestions as to how to make this idea work most
effectively?


I think it's much more likely that you will simply burn a hole in the
floorpan, it's very difficult to arc weld thin steel.

I think you'd be better off screwing a plate to the floorpan with
several self tapping screws and attaching the slide hammer to that in
some way.

--
Chris Green
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On 26/08/2020 14:45, Chris Green wrote:
Mike McLeod wrote:
Being unable to obtain one without pre-ordering locally, I've cobbled
up this slide hammer to pull out a ding in the underside of this car I
bought. Some clod had missed the jacking point and ended up pushing up
the floor close to the cross-member the J.P. is mounted to. The
sliding weight should have more than enough grunt to get it out, but
I'm wondering if my scheme will work because I plan to 'weld' the end
of the shaft to the indented part by passing up to 220 amps through it
and thrusting it up against the floorpan, hoping it will stick
sufficiently for me to be able to tap the ding out. I'll turn the
current off as soon as it tacks to the floor, obviously; should only
take a fraction of a second?
I'll be attaching the live cable of an arc welder to the ring-end of
the shaft. The pointy end is shaved down to a flat point of 5mm
diameter. This'll be the part that I hope will fasten itself to the
bottom of the floorpan.

https://yandex.com/collections/card/...6dddf69f0fa62/

Any tips/suggestions as to how to make this idea work most
effectively?


I think it's much more likely that you will simply burn a hole in the
floorpan, it's very difficult to arc weld thin steel.

I think you'd be better off screwing a plate to the floorpan with
several self tapping screws and attaching the slide hammer to that in
some way.

+1

Also, does it matter? Can't you attack it from the other side?
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:18:03 +0100, newshound
wrote:

Also, does it matter? Can't you attack it from the other side?


No, it's a blind void. And I'm *not* trying to arc weld it to the
floorpan like the other fellah said. I'm planning to jab the shaft up
against the car chassis while it's hooked up to the welding
transformer in the hope that they fuse together under the heavy
current. There is a variation of this technique in common practice in
pro body shops. Here's how it works in principle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy_cVxfaq28


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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian


Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On 26/08/2020 16:36, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:18:03 +0100, newshound
wrote:

Also, does it matter? Can't you attack it from the other side?


No, it's a blind void. And I'm *not* trying to arc weld it to the
floorpan like the other fellah said. I'm planning to jab the shaft up
against the car chassis while it's hooked up to the welding
transformer in the hope that they fuse together under the heavy
current. There is a variation of this technique in common practice in
pro body shops. Here's how it works in principle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy_cVxfaq28

Well it might work although stud welders and spot welders usually rely
on an adjustable timer (or fixed timer and adjustable current). And you
saw how clean the body shop guy got the surface. But I still wonder why
you feel the need to fix it if it is only protruding into a blind void.
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:03:47 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 26/08/2020 16:36, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 15:18:03 +0100, newshound
wrote:

Also, does it matter? Can't you attack it from the other side?


No, it's a blind void. And I'm *not* trying to arc weld it to the
floorpan like the other fellah said. I'm planning to jab the shaft up
against the car chassis while it's hooked up to the welding
transformer in the hope that they fuse together under the heavy
current. There is a variation of this technique in common practice in
pro body shops. Here's how it works in principle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy_cVxfaq28

Well it might work although stud welders and spot welders usually rely
on an adjustable timer (or fixed timer and adjustable current). And you
saw how clean the body shop guy got the surface. But I still wonder why
you feel the need to fix it if it is only protruding into a blind void.


Fair point. If you could see it, you would notice it's torn away the
jacking point from the surrounding metal so there's a fissure you can
trace your fingernail though. This is an old classic so the metal is
not as pliable as a new car would be. By the same token, some rusty
holes have opened up on the other side which had it been undamaged,
would not have been apparent. Need to fix these issues, not just for
the sake of completeness, but my conscience!
I can get the area clean no problem, but am inclined to leave it be as
a little resistance would be no bad thing, since it generates a
hot-spot when high current is passed through it, which is in this
instance at least, desirable!
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On 26/08/2020 16:45, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian


Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.



I know nothing about these things, but the weld has to be strong enough
to take the hammering, so how do you remove it later?


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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On 26/08/2020 14:45, Chris Green wrote:
Mike McLeod wrote:
Being unable to obtain one without pre-ordering locally, I've cobbled
up this slide hammer to pull out a ding in the underside of this car I
bought. Some clod had missed the jacking point and ended up pushing up
the floor close to the cross-member the J.P. is mounted to. The
sliding weight should have more than enough grunt to get it out, but
I'm wondering if my scheme will work because I plan to 'weld' the end
of the shaft to the indented part by passing up to 220 amps through it
and thrusting it up against the floorpan, hoping it will stick
sufficiently for me to be able to tap the ding out. I'll turn the
current off as soon as it tacks to the floor, obviously; should only
take a fraction of a second?
I'll be attaching the live cable of an arc welder to the ring-end of
the shaft. The pointy end is shaved down to a flat point of 5mm
diameter. This'll be the part that I hope will fasten itself to the
bottom of the floorpan.

https://yandex.com/collections/card/...6dddf69f0fa62/

Any tips/suggestions as to how to make this idea work most
effectively?


I think it's much more likely that you will simply burn a hole in the
floorpan, it's very difficult to arc weld thin steel.

I think you'd be better off screwing a plate to the floorpan with
several self tapping screws and attaching the slide hammer to that in
some way.


Dent pulling for thin body panels uses hot melt glue and attachments to
the slide hammer with different surface areas. Sprayed IPA will release
the glue from the panel. I've got very limited experience of this
technique and it is not just pulling out a dent but also knocking back
high points (ridge lines etc.). In the OP case cosmetic perfection may
not be required on the underside of a car.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk


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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On 26/08/2020 19:08, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 17:03:47 +0100, newshound
wrote:


I can get the area clean no problem, but am inclined to leave it be as
a little resistance would be no bad thing, since it generates a
hot-spot when high current is passed through it, which is in this
instance at least, desirable!

I disagree. You will get the peak current density at the contact from
the constriction resistance effect. You do *not* want to include oxide
in the weld, because this will reduce its strength.
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

alan_m wrote:

Dent pulling for thin body panels uses hot melt glue and attachments to
the slide hammer


I've seen glued ones & spot welded ones
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

GB Wrote in message:
On 26/08/2020 16:45, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian


Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.



I know nothing about these things, but the weld has to be strong enough
to take the hammering, so how do you remove it later?




Angle grinder
--
Jimk


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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

GB Wrote in message:
On 26/08/2020 16:45, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian


Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.



I know nothing about these things, but the weld has to be strong enough
to take the hammering, so how do you remove it later?




Angle grinder
--
Jimk


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 22:07:15 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jimk
wrote:

GB Wrote in message:
On 26/08/2020 16:45, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian

Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.



I know nothing about these things, but the weld has to be strong enough
to take the hammering, so how do you remove it later?




Angle grinder


Or multi-tool with metal-cutting blade fitted.


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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On 27/8/20 1:45 am, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian


Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.

Can't you just cut the whole shebang out and weld a new bit in like they
have done for generations before this dent pulling carry on
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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

Cursitor Doom Wrote in message:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 22:07:15 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jimk
wrote:

GB Wrote in message:
On 26/08/2020 16:45, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian

Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.



I know nothing about these things, but the weld has to be strong enough
to take the hammering, so how do you remove it later?




Angle grinder


Or multi-tool with metal-cutting blade fitted.


....& large stack of "metal cutting blades"...
--
Jimk


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Default Improvised slide hammer 'welded' to dent in car's floor

On Thu, 27 Aug 2020 14:44:15 +1000, F Murtz
wrote:

On 27/8/20 1:45 am, Mike McLeod wrote:
On Wed, 26 Aug 2020 16:09:38 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Where should we send the flowers after the explosion?
Brian


Very droll I'm sure. I'll be using a proper industrial Oxford
oil-cooled arc welder circa 1973 for this job, not some crappy Chinese
"turbo" fan-cooled, low-duty-cycle job, so there won't be any
explosions.

Can't you just cut the whole shebang out and weld a new bit in like they
have done for generations before this dent pulling carry on


Which decade of late 19thC are you referring to?
Light dents, fair enough. Trouble is, some dents are bad enough to
draw in the surrounding metal and depending on where this happens, the
only remedy is to fully restore the correct geometry around the
affected area, which can only be achieved by pulling whilst tapping
down the resulting 'caldera' with a metal shrinking hammer.
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