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pyotr filipivich

on Wed, 12 Aug 2020 18:42:08 -0400 typed in
rec.woodworking the following:

You didn't address my question about how the joists are "attached to the
studs". Are they really not sitting on the top plate of the wall? Are you
really depending on the shear strength of screws/nails to support the loft?

Yes.

Relax people ..
... from the previous thread - it's a 10 x 10 ft. shed
with a 6 ft. extension tacked on ... I think ?

Rebuilt.

Started with a 10x10 shed, which had rotting floors and a roof in
need of "help". But the walls seemed sound so. the obvious thing to
do was tear off the roof & sheathing, save the trusses, separate the
walls at the NW & SW corners (leaving two walls connected. That way
they'll stand by themselves and not fall over).rip up the old
flooring, salvage the concrete 12" square stepping 'stones', make up a
new foundation using concrete rounds from the septic company's scrap
pile* as 'posts'. Lay them out in a grid pattern, "level" them to
some extent (A simple procedure involving lasers), and put the 4x4
beams length wise (16' long). Frame up PT 2x4s for the floor and glue
& nail the 5/4 (I think) flooring. Remount the walls ( a simple
procedure after repairing some of the dry rot. Realize that the
rafters aren't going to line up if I have the six foot "inserts"
catywompus from each other. Drop the East wall. No, literally, the
rig to lower the wall twisted, and it fall down go boom. No great
damage.
So now the North wall is free standing, the West and South walls
are in place and the East wall is slid south to mate with it's old
corner. For reasons of budget, the six foot panels have studs on 24"
centers. Made sense at the time. Realize that I have the wrong joist
hangers, get 'the right ones'. I'm using ten foot 2x8's because 16
footers are too expensive.
Laid down the loft flooring, mostly the old sheathing now
repurposed as "floor". Yes it leaves large gaps,they will serve as
access to the storage area.
After considering various configurations for said storage area,
and having the idea of a Gambrel roof vetoed by the property owner, I
went with a simple 3 1/2 foot knee or half wall around the perimeter,
and the rafters going on top. Unfortunately, a 10x10 shed does not
have enough rafters, and Carlin the six foot tall midget knocked out
replacements in jig time. He's good, really good.
After that it was a simple procedure to add the additional T1
sheathing to the open sides, cut and install same for the knee wall,
sheath the roof, throw a tarp on it and call the roofers.** Borrow
Rob's spray painter again, and after scoring 6 gallons of Sherwin
Williams miss-tint paint for $2 a gallon. paint it green. Then paint
the inside white: walls, floors, ceiling, (but not the loft.) Done

Left out of this was the fun of finding out how the power was
supplied, what the code required for running a formal connection to
the other outbuilding, and discovering that while I could relocate the
power to the shed from the North wall to the West wall, it didn't
leave me enough to move the outlets up where I wanted them. (it is a
shed/shop, why put the outlets at floor level?) That will get fix
someday in the future. Maybe.

In sum: 10x10 shed had the walls reused on a new 10 by 16
foundation/ floor with a three foot addition on top. I bought a
Compound Mitre saw, a second cordless drill & reciprocating saw, a
water level, laser level and "stuff" (Yes, that is a line item.)

I did not install any windows at the time, nor finish off the
interior. Just decanted two storage units into Greenwich. "It fit".
As always "If I'd known then, what I know now,I wouldn't have
done it that way, if at all".

So now, what was formerly the Storage Shed, has become the Shop
and Storage. The "office" stuff moved from Green shed to Blue shed,
the "shop" got moved out of the other Blue outbuilding, with the bench
up against the South Wall. However, I do not want to put a five foot
window on the south wall, which faces the alley. However, accessing
the north wall requires moving 5x10by7 feet of boxes etc, and there is
no place currently for doing so.
But I can now get to the west Wall, having only moved out half
the western world and there is a 2x2ft square window from a previous
acquisition.
However, about the middle of where I can access the west wall is
where the 16" OC studs meet the 24" OC studs coming the other way.
From the North: 24", 24". 24".3". 16", 16" door frame, and so on.

I'm just going to cut the 3rd (24") and 4th (3"), below the joist
hangers, stick a header below said joist hangers, with a king stud at
each end. Maybe, seeing how it goes, use the cut stud as a jack stud,
or cut it off to support the window sill. "We'll get started and see
how it flows organically." (Snerk. Yes, I have said that, but I was
trying to get the bookcases and shelving setup in a living room which
was mostly full of boxed books at the time.) Then insulate and finish
the west wall, and attempt to get to the north wall. And move
everything in the Blue building about 4" to the East, sot he Steamer
Trunk will fit in there.
Then in September ....

Of course, If I'd won the lottery anytime in the last four years,
this would be moot. I'd've torn it all down and put in a 2 1/2 car
garage. Or rent/buy commercial space.
But my rich uncle got didn't get out of the poor house, but was
transferred to the old folks home, and so I'm having to do this all on
my own. I need new hobbies.

tschus
pyotr

*when they saw holes in the side of a circular tank / pipe, they get a
core about 18" Dia & 5" thick'. Really handy for all sorts of uses.
Just watch out for the rebar.

**They have the experience, tools and could get a roof thrown up in
far less time than I could.

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."