View Single Post
  #32   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
Bob Eager[_7_] Bob Eager[_7_] is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,451
Default Torbeck valve - how does it work?

On Tue, 07 Jul 2020 11:05:09 -0700, solarstevegs wrote:

My girlfriend's Torbeck-based cistern started filling very slowly.
Eventually found the problem - a small slit in the diaphragm. This
meant the water pressure both sides was more-or-less the same, hence it
couldn't open properly. Looking at the thing, under normal
circumstances, the very small hole that goes over the locating pin is a
tiny bleed hole similar in size to the hole at the float end, so
pressure on the float side is much less until the float stops off that
end. If the diaphragm splits, the 'bleed' effect is much greater. Most
irritatingly: found her local Wickes had stock, ordered by click and
collect, and found when I'd got back they'd given me a 'Fluidmaster'
diaphragm, which looks the same but has the small hole in the middle,
not to one side. And due to Covid, they had shut by the time I
realised. Amazon and eBay both stock them, but when I want it, I want
it NOW!!!!

Hers is a slimline cistern, so the good old Portsmouth type that I have
at home isn't an option.


We have slimlines (came with the house) and a special float and arm on
one of them shattered. I replaced it with a Torbeck years ago.

The onoly problem is that sometimes it doesn't shut off properly and the
overflow starts to run. Always caused by a tiny bit of grit blocking the
bleed hole under the arm [1]. Take it apart, compressed air, job done.

[1] Generally when they've been digging up the pipes nearby.


--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor