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Leon[_7_]

On 7/1/2020 8:10 PM, wrote:

Snip

No we are not talking gas vs. electric but this is the easiest way for
me to explain the difference. All electric motors can have max torque
at low speed but not necessarily.

Motors of the same type work the same. They're all DC motors, and
these are more precisely brushless DC motors, and act alike.

If all act alike how can one claim to have more torque than the next. ;~)

The Festool is all electronic including the electronic clutch. On a
different drill you pull the trigger, the drill stalls until you pull
the trigger more. Not the case with the Festool. It is much less
likely to stall at very low speeds with out having to give it more juice.

No, the electronic clutch is an advantage but the motor technology is
the same. Neither will stall. The clutches will disengage with the
Festool being more predictable.

The clutch is not being used at all to create the stall, the load is
causing the stall.

In any case, I prefer impact drivers for driving screws. I have a lot
less problem with cam out with impact drivers. I can more easily pull
a buggered screw with an impact driver than I can with a drill.

Yeah me too. But then I got the Festool drill and I seldom if ever need
an impact. I hardly ever if ever have buggered up a screw with the
Festool drill.

I get them all the time - with square-heads too. I don't know how I
do it but it's not unusual. I've even buggered a few star heads. I
think my depth perception may be nonexistent. I know I can't see
anything close anymore, even with glasses.
Driving at a fast speed, often necessary to be able to drive the screw
with other brand drills, increases the likely hood of cam out and
buggering up the thread.
Again, with my Festool I simply drive slow through out the whole drive
of the screw. It tends to maintain the same speed with out having to
"gun it". ;~)

I'm probably going to go to Woodcraft Saturday to take a look at both
again. The price isn't bad but I wasn't impressed with a quick feel.

I really have no skin in the game and I am simply describing my
experience with the tool. I learned to appreciate the electronic clutch
and delivery of power the more I used it.
The electronic clutch is elegant. The drill simply stops turning at the
preset clutch setting and then sounds a tone. It remains stopped until
you release the trigger and pull it again. None of that clattering and
rattling a typical clutched drill produces.

That's a worthwhile feature. They're also brushless, which is a
feature I wouldn't give up now. Again, I'll give it a fair look again
and I hope they have them set up to really try out.

Take some deck screws with you and maybe even a piece of 2x4. Drive the
screws into the edge of the 2x4 so that you are not penetrating.

I thought they'd have some available but it's a good idea. Even the
BORG has had them available to play with their Ryobi stuff.

I normally do not trust the demo to include materials that I want to
test for MY real world conditions.

Remember, you have a period of time to return the tool if you decide it
is not your cup of tea.
3-Year Comprehensive Warranty Coverage - including wear and tear!
3-Year free shipping to and from Festool service department.
10-Year spare parts availability guarantees long-term support.
1-Month money back guarantee.

Sending Festools back isn't likely. Yeah, I have a few. ;-)

Don't you have the 55 track saw? Weren't you you indicating that it
sounded like it was straining when cutting thick stock?

Sure. One of the first, I think. I've had it about ten years.
There's no way I'd be without it. My Unisaur is getting a lot less
use.

It works fine but I thought it should have more power. It's nothing
like a 7" circular saw.

I was watching YouTube with a Festool guy explaining this sound.
Apparently it is some type of feed back circuitry keeping the blade at a
constant rpm that causes this sound.

Interesting.