"maxq" wrote in message ...

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 13:28:29 -0400, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 16:43:35 +0000 (UTC)
maxq wrote:

On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 07:50:28 -0700, wws wrote:

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 6:09:37 AM UTC-5, maxq wrote:
[...]

I'm not smart enough to reinvent the wheel:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...-drive-socket-
caps-67011.html


Can't access the end - tool slides along an axle. Can't drill a hole
crossways either (well you could but it wouldn't help any).

You might want to post the problem, what you're trying to do and see if
anyone has a different solution ;-)


Old freewheel remover, the correct tool is NLA.

The freewheel has an internal splined face for the remover. The remover
has to slide over the axle and into the freewheel top, axle pokes out the
end of the remover.

The socket will get matching splines ground from its outer circumference
at the nut end.

A 12-point 9/16" socket is the right size, plus I can index it off a bolt
head - mount bolt in locked lathe chuck, head out with a strong spring
between the chuck face and the socket (mounted on the bolt with the nut
end outward). Dremel with 5 stacked cutoff disks on carriage, grind a
slot, pull the socket towards the face and switch points, grind the next
slot.

================================

Something like this?
https://www.thebikesmiths.com/produc...SABEgIcR_D_BwE

A split shaft collar might hold the socket more securely than the spring. If
it won't close on an undersized shank you can grind the joining face without
ruining it for other use. Bolt threads crush and don't run true if the chuck
is tightened on them enough to resist cutting force.

I've milled several similar splined shafts from O-1 drill rod, without
hardening it.

If your lathe has loose change gears an adapter to mount one on the left end
of the spindle for indexing would be useful. I used a 52 tooth change gear
to index and mill 13 splines to fit a motorcycle drive sprocket.