On 25/05/2020 15:26, wrote:
On 25/05/2020 12:20, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/05/2020 10:55, wrote:
On 25/05/2020 10:32, Tricky Dicky wrote:
I just replaced the seat and back of an old cast iron garden bench
with some reclaimedÂ* solid oak wood. Whoops. The cast iron is
reacting with the tannin in the oak and giving black stain, but it
was such a p.i.t.a. job it can bloody stay that way
Also there is a difference between American Oak and European Oak.
The latter is more weather resistant ISTR

Make sure you use brass fixings, things like steel screws will
simply rust away. If using screws always drill correct pilot and
clearance holes and drive a steel screw in first before replacing
with a brass one. Use a traditional wood screw to form the threads
for the brass screw rather than the more modern twin threads and
self drilling screws.

Richard

.... or stainless steel, but the same advice applies about running a
regular screw through beforehand - the bu&&ers shear much more easily
than the usual non s/s screws. Once sheared you need to core out the
area around the remains, plug the hole, and drill a slightly-larger
clearance and pilot before using the new screw - a PITA.

Slightly off thread: my plug cutters only work in a pillar drill, are
there any that will work in a hand drill?

The main problem is keeping them on centre...

One workaround is to use the plug cutter to make a hole (or a row of
holes) through some 1/2" ply in the pillar drill. Then when wanting to
use the plug cutter free hand, clamp the ply to the stock you want to
make plugs from, and use it to guide the plug cutter.


Thanks, that hadn't occurred to me.
FYI, from a quick look around it seems that there are some cutters out
there with a centre pin, but they seem to be mostly a US thing

Should have also said, another way is if you have a forstner bit of the
same diameter - drill a shallow hole with that first, then follow with
the plug cutter.

--
Cheers,

John.

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