On Monday, May 25, 2020 at 1:16:14 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 24/05/2020 16:51, George Miles wrote:
I'm removing rotten wood, pine, plaster, foam, car body filler etc from an old bay window.

I'm thinking to replace just the rotten bits, not the whole thing,
copying the shape of the old bits.

I have some old oak beams which could be 100 or 200 or 300 years old,

how hard would this be to cut?

Its harder to work by hand than some other hardwoods, but it machines
nicely.

Maybe a new Freud blade for my table saw?

Try what you have first - you may be surprised.

Or buy new oak which would be softer,

Don't count on it (unless its green, and then not suitable for window
frames). Oak is quite hard and dense.

but how much would it warp as it drys out?

It will likely be kiln dried to a moisture content in the low teens. If
anything it would be likely to get wetter rather than drier in this
application.

advice please

Photo and video on my facebook at:
https://www.facebook.com/dicegeorge/...58317257739882

Yup, not much left to patch - so letting in a whole new bit looks
sensible. (and scarf in some new bottom ends to the mullions as well buy
the looks of it).

--
Cheers,

John.

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I just replaced the seat and back of an old cast iron garden bench with some reclaimed solid oak wood. Whoops. The cast iron is reacting with the tannin in the oak and giving black stain, but it was such a p.i.t.a. job it can bloody stay that way
Also there is a difference between American Oak and European Oak. The latter is more weather resistant ISTR