"Harry K" wrote in message
m...
"HeatMan" wrote in message
link.net...
"Harry K" wrote in message
om...
"HeatMan" wrote in message
link.net...

I'm curious. Just how do you know that no local codes don't do
that?


Our local codes, you moron.

Ah, that is clear as mud. Because -your- codes don't that means -no
codes do-? I can see it now as my local inspector downchecks my work.
"but heatman's code doesn't require that". Your logic has a BIG hole
in it.

You are an inbred moron, aren't you? It's not MY code, it's the code
for my
municipality....

Second, and more important(!), the question was who told the OP
to
run a
leaking pipe to a floor drain. If the relief is leaking, there
is a
problem
and running it to a floor drain will simply hide the problem.
You
need
to
learn how to read.

What got your panties in a bunch? I posted a comment to others
pointing out that just pointing a TPR overflow to the floor (or
elsewhere) is not a good practice. If you think I mean to connect
it
to the drain, I don't. You must ahve an air gap and a blowing
pipe
into a drain will be notice enough. You seem to think that
suddenly
discovering water everywhere on the floor is a 'good thing'. As
to
reading, I do just fine, you don't do so well in the logic
department
tho.


Brother, you ain't got a clue, do you? 'Pointing' the releif
towards
the
floor is better than not piping it down at all.


And that comment is supposed to mean something in response to what I
posted?? Logic man, logic. Of course it is better but it is not the
-best- solution.

YOU talk about logic? 99.9% of the people who know anything about this
understood what i was saying. I don't care if you do.


Oh, and yes, the relief valves do pop and run continuously. If
it's
in
an
older house with a 1.25 inch or a 1.5 inch floor drain (and it
does
happen,
I'm sitting about 14 feet from a 1.5 inch floor drain), don't
you
think
65-120 psi will overpower the draining capacity of such a small
drain?


Again your seem to think that a flooded floor is a 'good thing'.
Yes
it can overwhelm the drain so just let it blow eh??


No, I don't think a flooded floor is a good thing. What gave you
that
idea?

Well your first -personal attack (for no reason)- on me was to the
effect that leading it to a drain was bad business. Gee, maybe that
gave me the idea that you don't approve of it.

I am licensed by the state I live in. Are you(except for your license
to be
a moron, not to be confused with the Stormin Moron)? This has not been
a
personal attack, unless you are thin skinned enough to beleive it is..


While I'm at it, have you ever seen the pipe off a relief valve
drain
upwards? I see them almost daily...... New codes require there
to
be
some
way to drain the water off the seat of the valve.

So all -local- codes require that now??. Just how does pointing
the
pipe -up- drain the valve seat and just where is all that water
spraying to??

A lot of the older homes had the releif piped outside. Now, Joe
Homeowner
or a hack 'plumber' comes in and reconnects the existing pipe the
the
new
releif. That's when the drain from the releif comes in. That's
what
keeps
the water off the seat of the releif.

Try answering the question instead of going off into the bushes.
Again, pointing the pipe -up- drains the valve seat just how? I have
never seen a pipe pointing up that drains anything unless it is by
siphon. Why do I think that you have read something into the code
that isn't there?

There is a couple of fitting available, one is called a 'tee.' You pipe
the
releif into the tee and provide a way for the water to drain off,
usually a
3/8" sink valve. This will allow the water to drain off the seat
(providing
it was installed at a slight downward pitch) with out spraying high
pressure
hot water all over a person that stands near the valve. Nibco makes an
elbow that has a drain on it. To me, that looks a lot neater and I will
take the rubber gasket out that seals it. That means there is no way
the HO
can seal the pipe off and let water sit on the seat. (of course, I
don't do
this if the water tank is in an area that can be damaged by water on the
floor. I also explain all functions the the HO before I submit the bill
and
answer any questions.)


Here is another question. Do you agree that the TPR valve should be
piped to a drain (using an air gap of course)???

If there is an adequate drain nearby, yes. For those still following
this
thread, Harry is refering to an air gap not as a special fitting, but an
actual space between the end of the releif and the drain opening. That
way
you can see the water coming out the releif and know you have a problem.

If you have noticed, I have always referred to the fittings as a relief
or
relief valve instead of a 'TPR.' Do you know why that is?

Make up your mind. Do -all- codes require this? In one place you say
that no codes require it be piped to a drain, then you say that all
codes require it to be piped vertically. Now just how you know that
is a wonder.

The codes require the releif to be piped to a place where the discharge will
*not* harm someone. How it's piped is usually locally determined.

No I don't as TPR is short for Temperature, Pressure, Relief (Valve).
Correctly it should be TPRV but the shorthand is acceptable.

I install a lot of releif valves that have nothing to do with the temprature
of the water. Do you have a clue what I am talking about?

Thin skinned? In your very first reply you said I needed to be able
to read? Not a personal attack?? Horse ****!.


I don't use language like that and I think it's vulgar and demeaning. You
need to grow up and start reading what is written with an open mind. This
has never beena personal attack and will never be in a public forum. One of
the best rules of management is to praise in public and punish in private.

Your only valid point about the pipe pointing up is to keep it from
spraying on a person standing next to it. If pointed down it could
still spray on the feet. As for draining the valve, a pipe pointing
down does that quite well without all the monkey business.


By the way, what exactly do you do for a living? It sure isn't mechanical
contracting.

Note that this whole think started with you complaining about me
saying that it should be piped to a drain. Now you say you do it when
possible. So just what -is- your problem?? By the way, you could
knock off the personal attacks, it only makes you look stupid.

Actually, you jumped in when I asked the OP "Who told you to pipe it to a
drain?" My comment to that was doing that without repairing the problem
wasn't not the proper way to solve the problem. You then said something
about an air gap. The thread went downhill from there.

I will agree that is *should* be piped to a drain. It's just that it's not
always possible.

Harry, people like you don't need a keyboard. You think you are always
right and hide behind the keyboard proclaiming your superiority to anyone
that will listen. That superiority complex you have (like a mini Napoleon)
gets magnified because you can hide behind a keyboard.

When you have 20 plus years in the mechanical field, you will have the right
to say what you want. Until you can prove to me you have been in my field
for enough years, you are still a moron.

I am done with this thread and will no longer respond to your idiotic
comments. If you wish to continue this conversation, you may email me at my
response address.

BTW, your TPR comments are wrong. I call it a relief because they relieve
pressure in boilers and water heaters. I have never seen a boiler set up
correctly that had a 'TPR' on it. Most boilers I work on have relief valves
that open at 30 pounds. Even those are supposed to be (at least) piped to
the floor. Piping a steam boiler relief to a floor drain can be a major
waste of materials.

'nuff said. Have a good life Harry.