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Harry K
 
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Default Water heater pressure relief value drip

"HeatMan" wrote in message link.net...
"Harry K" wrote in message
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"HeatMan" wrote in message

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"Harry K" wrote in message
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"HeatMan" wrote in message

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Yeah, but run a leaking one to a drain?


The TPR valve should -always- be run to a drain, code or no code.
Just picture what happens if the valve opens and fails to close again
(yes it happens). You now have an open connection to the service line
that will continue to spew water until someone shuts it off. No
drain?? Where do you think the water is going to go??

Harry K

First off, local codes (read LOCAL) do not require the relief valve to

be
run to a drain. The code requires the pipe to be run to a point a few
inches above the ground. Running the pipe to a drain is a plus.


I'm curious. Just how do you know that no local codes don't do that?


Our local codes, you moron.


Ah, that is clear as mud. Because -your- codes don't that means -no
codes do-? I can see it now as my local inspector downchecks my work.
"but heatman's code doesn't require that". Your logic has a BIG hole
in it.

Second, and more important(!), the question was who told the OP to run a
leaking pipe to a floor drain. If the relief is leaking, there is a

problem
and running it to a floor drain will simply hide the problem. You need

to
learn how to read.


What got your panties in a bunch? I posted a comment to others
pointing out that just pointing a TPR overflow to the floor (or
elsewhere) is not a good practice. If you think I mean to connect it
to the drain, I don't. You must ahve an air gap and a blowing pipe
into a drain will be notice enough. You seem to think that suddenly
discovering water everywhere on the floor is a 'good thing'. As to
reading, I do just fine, you don't do so well in the logic department
tho.


Brother, you ain't got a clue, do you? 'Pointing' the releif towards the
floor is better than not piping it down at all.


And that comment is supposed to mean something in response to what I
posted?? Logic man, logic. Of course it is better but it is not the
-best- solution.


Oh, and yes, the relief valves do pop and run continuously. If it's in

an
older house with a 1.25 inch or a 1.5 inch floor drain (and it does

happen,
I'm sitting about 14 feet from a 1.5 inch floor drain), don't you think
65-120 psi will overpower the draining capacity of such a small drain?


Again your seem to think that a flooded floor is a 'good thing'. Yes
it can overwhelm the drain so just let it blow eh??


No, I don't think a flooded floor is a good thing. What gave you that idea?


Well your first -personal attack (for no reason)- on me was to the
effect that leading it to a drain was bad business. Gee, maybe that
gave me the idea that you don't approve of it.


While I'm at it, have you ever seen the pipe off a relief valve drain
upwards? I see them almost daily...... New codes require there to be

some
way to drain the water off the seat of the valve.


So all -local- codes require that now??. Just how does pointing the
pipe -up- drain the valve seat and just where is all that water
spraying to??

A lot of the older homes had the releif piped outside. Now, Joe Homeowner
or a hack 'plumber' comes in and reconnects the existing pipe the the new
releif. That's when the drain from the releif comes in. That's what keeps
the water off the seat of the releif.


Try answering the question instead of going off into the bushes.
Again, pointing the pipe -up- drains the valve seat just how? I have
never seen a pipe pointing up that drains anything unless it is by
siphon. Why do I think that you have read something into the code
that isn't there?

Here is another question. Do you agree that the TPR valve should be
piped to a drain (using an air gap of course)???

Harry K