And this, gang, is why Robert is a success in running his on-line store.

He took the time to give the man as much information, if not more, than he
needed. If he can then turn around and sell the man his parts and his
monitoring, it will be a win win situation! Why not? He has to buy the
parts somewhere and he can't buy from our wholesale houses in Texas without
a valid company license. With Bass, he will get support helping him use
what he buys.

I know that some will take exception to what I have said and will try and
convince John why they shouldn't buy from Bass, but where are you in filling
in the gap?
--
Allan Waghalter
Security Sure Alarm Company
Houston, TX 77071


None of the rest of us, me included, took the time to explain the needs as
well as Bass.
"Robert L. Bass" wrote in message
...
I am building a new house, and as an almost
afterthought, I want to install prewiring for
an alarm system. I am thinking of just
prewiring the system for now, and purchase
the system/subscription later. The drywall is
not up, so this should be reasonably easy to
do.

Hi John,

It's simple enough to prewire for an effective alarm system during
construction. You're right to plan for flexibility as well. As you
surmised, the cabling for keypads, power, phone connection and ground is
similar with most systems. A few systems are starting to use CAT5 for the
keypads but with most you can use 22/4 (22-gauge, 4-conductor) cable for
just about everything. Although the magnetic door and window sensors (in
the trade these are called "contacts") only need two wires there's very
little difference in cost between 2 and 4 conductor cable so many techs
just
use the four.

Plan on installing the contacts with the wires if at all possible.
Contacts
are cheap -- the best ones cost only $3 or $4 apiece -- and it's a bit
easier to insert them during construction than afterward. Bug each
external
door and each operable window. I have an extensive FAQ website where you
can learn a bit about what to choose and how to install it in case you
decide to DIY. Even if you hire an alarm contractor it's good to educate
yourself so you will know what to expect and even what to insist on.

Plan for motion detectors in a few strategic locations. It's good to have
motion detection in front of (but not actually facing) the stairs leading
to
the sleeping area. If the home is a single story, put a motion detector
in
the bedroom hallway. Place a motion detector in the family room or
wherever
the audio / video gear will be since that is a target location for
thieves.
If you will have an office, consider placing a detector there, too. Some
folks like to install a motion sensor in the master bedroom since that is
also a target for thieves.

If there will be large glass doors in any first floor or basement level
room
consider installing a glass breakage detector in that area as well. These
devices can detect breaking glass 20 to 25 feet away so they protect an
entire room. I should mention that glass break detection is considered
supplemental protection by many installers. It doesn't replace magnetic
contacts. It's a backup.

If you are going to have the house monitored in the future, consider
installing a few system smoke detectors to augment the 110-Volt ones the
builder will install. While almost any smoke detector will wake you up
and
save your life, a monitored detector may get the fire department there in
time to save your house should something happen while you are out.

If the home will have gas heat or appliances you may want to prewire for
carbon monoxide detectors as well. These are typically installed at
"breathing level" (about 5 feet from the floor) near the bedrooms and in
the
vicinity of possible CO-producing appliances.

Prewire for a keypad at the door leading to the garage / driveway. Place
another keypad in the master bedroom. If there will be a formal entrance
many people like to put a keypad there as well. However, I usually
recommend against that one since it may rarely be used. It all depends on
the layout -- how your family will usually come and go. I usually specify
18/4 fire alarm cable for smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors.

Don't forget the siren speakers. Plan on one in the basement, one near
the
bedrooms and one either in the attic or under the eaves as high off the
ground as can be. The speakers should be wired with 18-gauge cable. If
you
have some extra fire alarm cable you can use it for those as well.

Run 22/4 or CAT5 (it makes no difference which) for the telephone
connection. This needs to be a dedicated, 4-wire cable from where the
phones enter the house to the alarm control panel. Speaking of where the
phone line enters, try to have the telco or the electrician move the
telephone company "demarc" (gray box on the outside wall) to the inside of
the house and conceal the cable. If you will have a basement the best way
is to run the cable through the foundation wall below grade. That way no
one can cut the phone line -- a growing problem in some areas.

Be sure to run a ground wire for the control panel. This can be a single
solid or stranded, 12 to 14-gauge wire. It should run to the home's main
electrical ground. That's usually either a long, copper clad stake near
the
electric meter. Use your own clamp; don't share another service's ground
or
some TI may remove your ground later. You can also use a cold water pipe
*if* everything else is grounded to the cold water pipe and *if* there is
no
insulating connector between the panel and the water meter.

Look for a few local alarm firms in the local directory and explain what
you
want to do. Many alarm companies don't want to do anything without
signing
a multi-year monitoring contract up front but you may luck out and find a
good one. If not, consider doing it yourself. It's not difficult and
only
a few simple tools are required. My business caters to DIYers so if you
decide to go that route I can help with parts and tech support.

Best of luck.

Alarm and Home Automation System FAQ
http://www.bass-home.com/faq/masterfaq/faq.htm

Regards,
Robert

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Sarasota · Florida · 34231
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http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
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