On 12/13/2019 1:19 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2019 1:54 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12/13/2019 11:45 AM, Frank wrote:
On 12/12/2019 11:24 AM, dpb wrote:
On 12/12/2019 9:52 AM, wrote:
...

The problem is that the U/V damage goes all the way through the
plastic and polishing only tries to recover the surface.Â* Plastic will
never be as hard or U/V resistant as glass.

+238.5

I've polished the beegeezus out of the ones on the work
truck...you'd have to take off good fraction of the material it
appears to get rid of the crazing...it's not just a thin surface.

The 300M was almost as bad when traded it off.

It's terrible choice of material for purpose.

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The plastics used for lenses are generally polycarbonate and
polymethylmethacrylate.Â* PMMA has the best UV resistance.Â* Both have
about the same scratch resistance which can be improved by coatings.
UV resistant coatings and antioxidants help PC the most is it absorbs
and is degraded by UV.

I don't know (and don't really care) what they are...all I know (and
care about) is that they don't last worth crap in operating conditions
where I live and drive.

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Point is that if properly made they work fine.Â* If you live in a sunny
climate with a lot of grit maybe sand blowing around you are going to
have problems and that include the paint on your car.

Point is "they DON'T work fine" or there wouldn't be all the polishing
kits on sale and complaints, even where there isn't quite such an
environment as here.

As for paint, it also suffers, yes, but not nearly as badly recent years
as did for a few right after the EPA banned nearly everything volatile
the manufacturers had been using. For a while clearcoats out here
almost universally failed within a year or two at the outside...of
course, had one of those fail even while still in the pretty benign TN
conditions altho it took a little longer than that.

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