On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 22:11:41 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 21:18:26 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 20:24:42 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 19:36:09 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:46:41 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:09:15 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 11:29:09 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 09:20:45 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 11/21/2019 12:12 AM, Jim Joyce wrote:
On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 20:02:45 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 01:35:30 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

There are a few things here you may have heard about that are wrong.

First the 3% is just a recommendation now a real rule and that would
be based on you actually using all of that 20a at one time. 16a is a
more realistic max design load (80% of your 20a). At 16a your #10 will
drop 4.64v or 3.8%. Bear in mind that is a max continuous load for a
20 a circuit.

I've evolved to thinking UF-B 10/2 (with 10ga ground) will work for this
application. I would bury 120ft of the 150ft roll, which gets me from the
exterior of the house to the interior of the shed. Once inside the shed, I
can use the scrap UF (about 30 feet or less left over) to run to
receptacles and then some 12ga to run to lights.

What kind of lights are you putting in that you need 12 ga? Must be
powerful spotlights or airport tower. Much easier working with 14 and
meets code.

I know you want to use the leftover 10 for the receptacles but 12 is
easier to work with too.

It won't be horrible if he wirenuts the #10, pigtails some #12 on to
go to the devices and shoves bulk of the wire in the back of the box.
As long as he uses deep boxes and shallow devices. I much prefer
using a blind junction box (no devices - blank cover) if not
installing a disconnect or "sub panel" with breakers to break down
from heavy wire to light. Pushing around stiff wires in the device box
is a good way to stress the wirenut connection - possibly causing
future problems.

Thanks. I'll be keeping that in mind. I agree with that observation.

Although not required in the listing and installation instructions
twisting the wires tight and trimming to length, then screwing on the
wire nut makes a better splice that is not going to come loose.
Not only not required but not recommended - as in "not kosher"

Cite that. It certainly is not in the NEC nor is it in the
instructions from Ideal

https://idealind.com/content/dam/electrical/assets/WireTermination/WireConnectors/TwistOn/WireNut/WireNut%20WireConnector%20Instructions.pdf

see #5.

I am always amazed at how much mis information and urban legend that
gets cited as fact on the internet.
From Ed McLaren, an instructor at ATT:
Not only is pre-twisting not required, it is not recommended.
The internal "thread" of the wirenut will get a better grip on the
wires if you do not pre-twist. The wires will conform better to the
shape of the internal thread if the wirenut does the twisting.

I don't like Ideals - prefer Marrett connectors. The way the "spring"
is designrd they actually work better not pretwisted.
and just for information, Bill Marr INVENTED the wire nut in 1914.
In Canada. Their "true Blue" is the Cat's Ass for general residential
wiring. They do now say pre-twisting is acceptable. Wasn't back in '69
with the old black phenolics - or in the 70s with the ACS (for
aluminum oe Aluminum/Copper)

The connection is already there if the wire is twisted up tight,
before the wirenut is screwed on. At that point is it is only
providing insulation. With the nut you have a splice that might be so
hard to pull apart that the wire could break first.
3M does make a live spring twist on connector if you prefer that style
and they do work better when the wires are not twisted.