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Clare Snyder Clare Snyder is offline
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Default New electrical circuit - requesting assistance

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 19:36:09 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:46:41 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:09:15 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 11:29:09 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 09:20:45 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 11/21/2019 12:12 AM, Jim Joyce wrote:
On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 20:02:45 -0500,
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 01:35:30 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

There are a few things here you may have heard about that are wrong.

First the 3% is just a recommendation now a real rule and that would
be based on you actually using all of that 20a at one time. 16a is a
more realistic max design load (80% of your 20a). At 16a your #10 will
drop 4.64v or 3.8%. Bear in mind that is a max continuous load for a
20 a circuit.

I've evolved to thinking UF-B 10/2 (with 10ga ground) will work for this
application. I would bury 120ft of the 150ft roll, which gets me from the
exterior of the house to the interior of the shed. Once inside the shed, I
can use the scrap UF (about 30 feet or less left over) to run to
receptacles and then some 12ga to run to lights.

What kind of lights are you putting in that you need 12 ga? Must be
powerful spotlights or airport tower. Much easier working with 14 and
meets code.

I know you want to use the leftover 10 for the receptacles but 12 is
easier to work with too.

It won't be horrible if he wirenuts the #10, pigtails some #12 on to
go to the devices and shoves bulk of the wire in the back of the box.
As long as he uses deep boxes and shallow devices. I much prefer
using a blind junction box (no devices - blank cover) if not
installing a disconnect or "sub panel" with breakers to break down
from heavy wire to light. Pushing around stiff wires in the device box
is a good way to stress the wirenut connection - possibly causing
future problems.


Thanks. I'll be keeping that in mind. I agree with that observation.


Although not required in the listing and installation instructions
twisting the wires tight and trimming to length, then screwing on the
wire nut makes a better splice that is not going to come loose.

Not only not required but not recommended - as in "not kosher"