On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:44:57 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:11:54 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 11:54:03 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 09:20:45 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 11/21/2019 12:12 AM, Jim Joyce wrote:
On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 20:02:45 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 01:35:30 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

There are a few things here you may have heard about that are wrong.

First the 3% is just a recommendation now a real rule and that would
be based on you actually using all of that 20a at one time. 16a is a
more realistic max design load (80% of your 20a). At 16a your #10 will
drop 4.64v or 3.8%. Bear in mind that is a max continuous load for a
20 a circuit.

I've evolved to thinking UF-B 10/2 (with 10ga ground) will work for this
application. I would bury 120ft of the 150ft roll, which gets me from the
exterior of the house to the interior of the shed. Once inside the shed, I
can use the scrap UF (about 30 feet or less left over) to run to
receptacles and then some 12ga to run to lights.

What kind of lights are you putting in that you need 12 ga? Must be
powerful spotlights or airport tower. Much easier working with 14 and
meets code.

It's a 4ft LED shop light. The specs say it draws 35 watts. :-) So yeah,
12ga is overkill.

I know you want to use the leftover 10 for the receptacles but 12 is
easier to work with too.

Agreed.
My single strip 4 foot LED lamp is 17 watts and puts out more light
than my old 2 tube flourescent in the garage over the lathe

Yep, it's pretty impressive how the new lighting is brighter (in lumens),
cooler (higher temp, closer to daylight), and also draws less power. I like
all three of those things, although I know that some people prefer the
golden glows of warmer light.
Which can also be acheived with LEDs