On Fri, 08 Nov 2019 11:52:17 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Nov 2019 06:03:48 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Hello, my house was built in the 80s and is located in the NE United States. I recently had a handyman in to do some work outside replacing some rotten wood and he said it looks like some corners were cut when the house was built, the builders did not install 'flashing' around the edges of the roof,


It's called Drip Molding
and the roof doesnt overhang the siding in many places.

Definitely a SHODDY job and poor design.

I've very little experience, but I've seen many houses where the roof
overhangs not at all, although the gutters overhang the width of the
gutters.

Also he said the house doesn't have a 'membrane' layer, which is is a more recent requirement. As a result water can get behind the siding and cause rot.

"Tar Paper" has been a REQUIREMENT for years - the newer membranes may
be better protection - but anyone who puts on a shingle roof without
"underlayment" is not worthy of being called a roofer. It should also
have ice and water guard on the lower 2 feet or so

How long have you been there? Have any of these probless? (Oh, yes,
some wood rot somewhere)

If ice dams have bee a problem -- temperature is high enough for snow on
top to melt but ice closer to the edge of the room keeps it from running
off the roof -- there are some metal things I see nailed to the roof
that I think are intended to stop that. Unless of course tthey are for
some other reason, like keeping piles of snow from sliding off the room
onto visitors on the porch.

Maybe someone will say what they are for and if that, maybe they can
relieve ice dams.

The "blades" in the roof are to prevent sheets of snow and ice feom
dropping on heads, cars, etc. The only way to prevent ice dams is
proper insulation and venting to prevent the snow from being melted
from below, and then freezing. Keep the heat from escaping from the
interior, and vent the bottom of the roof to get rid of any heat that
has escaped before it melts the snow.

As further protection, "ice and water guard" prevents water from
getting into the roof if it backs up under the shingles.

He thinks that the roof shingles need to be replaced in order to install the flashing. I think the shingles are in pretty good shape. Its not the original roof, but it is at least 10 years old. I dont want to get a new roof if I dont need to. He knows a roofing guy who will take a look, but I plan to get an independent roofer to check as well. Does the bit about flashing sound correct? And can flashing be installed without replacing the whole roof? Thanks

The drip molding MAY be possible to install without tearing off the
whole roof - but it's a nasty job. The bottom row of shingles will
have to be lifted - and they most likely will break - meaning they
have to be replaced - and they fit UNDER the row above them. Not
impossible - but perhaps almost as labor intensive as re-doing the
whole roof. While the old roof is off new sheathing can be installed
to replace where the edge has rotted - and provision can be made to
extend the roof beyond the outer edge of the siding too. Proper
underlay "membrane" and ice and water shield can be installed at the
same time. If the roof is 10 years old without amembrane it's most
likely high time to replace it anyway. Not to mention it is very
difficult to prooperly install the drip edge on rotted wood.
It will be a good way to judge the roofer if he says, Yes, you can just
slide the flashing in from the edge. versus Yeah, you need a roof.
Keep notes of who is who.


There is also flashing used at chimneys and valleys. I presume you have
any that is needed there.