On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"James Waldby" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote ...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.

I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
move
the router in this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface
such that the end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away.
Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
stack to
cut the matching joint.
...
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.

--
jiw

Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
clamps?

Change "stacking" to "standing". (||||||||) Square them up and securely
clamp them together. Now you can consider them one thick board and move
them over your router bit or stacked dado blade as a unit and rather than
notching one board at a time - notch several at a time with one pass over
the cutter.
--
Jerry O.