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Jim Wilkins[_2_] Jim Wilkins[_2_] is offline
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Default Fast, Inexpensive, Strong Drawers

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
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"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?


How do you rout a 9" thick stack?


Answering a question with a question?

Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say
12" x 18".
Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12"
thick.
(Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the
number of
sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).

Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation
patterns
for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.

Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface such that the
end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away. Offset the
jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the
matching joint.

[*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you
can add
as you move the router from slot to slot.

Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
clamp.


You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.