On Tuesday, September 24, 2019 at 9:05:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 24 Sep 2019 16:21:28 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 24, 2019 at 6:19:41 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 24, 2019 at 2:50:07 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
I called a company about replacing an electric water heater. The one
already in the house (about 15 or more years old) does not have an
electrical disconnect near it. They said they would have to send out a
licened electrician to install one as that is the code now.

Is it true they have to install the disconnect near the heater on a
replacement ? Could be a local code, but I doubt it.

I knew I was being ripped off when they wanted $ 1700 to replace the
water heater. They cut it to $ 1300 when I balked at the price. Said
instead of a 6 year warrenty it would be cut to 2 years at the lower
price.

A heater should be around $ 500 or less at the local Lowes store. I
would think that even at $ 100 an hour they should be able to put it in
for $ 1000 allowing for all kinds of markups.

I did get a local plummer and he told me the labor he charged was $ 100
an hour which seems reasonable to me. Just talking to him on the phone
he said probably around $ 800 to $ 900. Which seem sfair to me.

I could put it in , but where it is at is a pain to deal with and I hate
plumming.

I believe the answer is that if it's within sight of the breaker panel,
then that can serve as the disconnect. Otherwise you need either a
disconnect that's visible from the heater or a lockable disconnect
or panel. It's all
BS of course, because even if there is provision for a lock, almost
no one is ever going to use it on a home water heater when working
on it.

When my water heater went, I bought one for ~$400 at HD and rented their
truck to bring it home. I was surprised how light they are, I got it
home and down to the basement myself. That was gas and I think they
may cost a bit more now because of new safety features to prevent them
from blowing up your house if you pour gasoline all over the basement.

I should probably amend what I posted. That's definitely true for a new
installation, not sure about a replacement. The best way to know
the answer to that would be to call up your local code dept and ask.
If needed, you could put a disconnect in yourself to save the electrician
cost. A pull out disconnect, no switch is probably the lowest cost
way to go. It's better than a switch, because whoever is doing the work
can take the thing with them, preventing anyone from turning it back on,
even without a lock. If the WH needs a permit and it needs the disconnect,
then you're looking at two permits and inspections. Or DIY or with a
buddy. Ypu could DIY for the disconnect on the existing one and when
they come to quote the water heater, it will already be there too.

Why you need a disconnect on a water heater, but not AFAIK on direct
wired ovens, cook tops, or a dishwasher, IDK.
IDK

I agree with you. 422.30 certainly makes it sound like a wall mounted
oven or hard wired cook top should have a disconnect unless there is a
locking device on the breaker but I don't see it done. Ranges are
typically cord and plug connected and as long as you can reach that
plug without pulling out the range by "removing a drawer" it is legal.
The unit switch on the dishwasher is probably the disconnect if it has
an "off" position. Water heaters are dealt with because it is likely
the plumber will be doing the entire replacement and if there is a
disconnect there, he can work safely without really knowing much about
electricity. Most AHJs will require a permit for a water heater
replacement and they will want to see the disconnect there if the
panel is not within sight. There has been an argument about whether
one of those mechanical Intermatic timers is a disconnect but since
the "on" tripper overrides the manual "Off" lever most AHJ's say no.

So, to clarify for Ralph, most places the disconnect reqt would apply
to a water heater replacement too, not just new installs?