On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 11:11:16 AM UTC-4, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 25 Jun 2019 15:35:18 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 8:58:25 AM UTC-4, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 21:55:33 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 4:06:55 PM UTC-4, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 20:57:24 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Monday, June 24, 2019 at 1:00:53 PM UTC-4, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2019 10:43:13 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Sunday, June 23, 2019 at 8:12:53 PM UTC-4, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 23 Jun 2019 14:53:00 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Saturday, June 22, 2019 at 5:58:02 PM UTC-4, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jun 2019 17:03:08 +0100, TMS320 wrote:

On 21/06/2019 21:19, Commander Kinsey wrote:
How does a lead acid battery charger (or car alternator) know when to
switch to trickle charge?

It doesn't.

Mine does, if I start my car when the battery is say 80% full, the voltage will be 14.4V. After a while, something causes that voltage to drop to 13.8, because something knows the battery is full and should no longer be charged at a high rate.


Go find a description of the voltage regulator/alternator and/or a
schematic for that car.

No idea where to find that.

Give us the references. If something is telling
the VR/alternator what voltage to target, then there must be an additional
wire or connection of some kind.

Agreed. And it could well have a sensor in the fusebox etc.

I have not seen that. The other possibilities
are that the VR itself lowers the target voltage, based on? Makes no sense
and I've never seen it mentioned anywhere. I just googled for VR and looked
at half a dozen references, all just say the VR targets a specific voltage
period. The other possibility is that when you read the voltage later,
some other load is present that is lowering the system voltage that you see.

No, all I did was to start the car when the battery was almost full. The battery terminal voltage was immediately 14.4V. 20 minutes later it dropped to 13.8V. I added no loads.

Just because YOU

It's rude to shout. You didn't need to emphasize that word.

How about go **** yourself then?

Are you trying to stoop to Rod's level?

You;re his butt buddy, you're the one here defending him, now you
say that?

Why do you think it has to be one or the other? He's irritating and I've killfiled him a few times, but he's the only one who answered my question in this thread.

He answered it with speculation stated as fact.

He gave a plausible answer

But then you joined him when you eschewed references for claims, so you two can wallow in your own BS.

I proved he was correct by testing my own car.

added no loads doesn't mean the loads in the car are not changing.

And what would these imaginary loads be?

You're clearly clueless about the complexity of modern cars and
all the electrical loads.

Which don't change when it's sat idling in the driveway. Certainly not enough to overload an alternator.

Again, another diversion and obfuscation. I didn't say anything about
overloading anything. I simply said that the voltage changing at the
battery could be loads in the car changing.

The voltage is fixed by the alternator unless it's overloaded and can't provide the charging voltage.

No **** Sherlock. Any other unnecessary obfuscation you want to add in?
You were asking about how an alternator normally charges a battery.

Just up there, you repeated "I simply said that the voltage changing at the battery could be loads in the car changing."

I refuted that by saying the alternator fixes the voltage.

It fixes it, keeps it close to a target voltage, that doesn't mean
that the voltage can't change by a fraction of a volt due to loads.



Not too bright are you?

A lot brighter than you, who prefers the flapping gums of Rod the troll
and dismisses references as unnecessary.





I think it actually dropped gradually if that means anything. I actually did that test because someone in one of these groups (although some troll has deleted half the groups, so I've added them back in AGAIN) told me that a car alternator changes voltage, this was in a post 6 months ago.

Given that it's typically a dumb, passive component device, that seems
unlikely. And if it's true, then there should be plenty of discussion
about it at online resources, yet so far, neither you nor Rod can
produce anything.

Why can't you believe the ECU monitors the battery?

I didn't say I can't believe it,

You've dismissed Rod's claim adamantly several times.

I said his claim that they use the resistance of the battery cable
to measure current flow is highly doubtful for obvious reasons.
Someone else had to explain that to you.

Nobody has explained it. A wire has resistance, it has a voltage drop, very easy to measure.

As I and the the other poster told you, try using Ohm's Law.

Which is precisely what is used to measure the current in a wire by voltage drop.

Again, run the numbers, ****wit.





And if that's what they
do, use the battery cable to measure current, then why don't you
or your butt buddy show us some REFERENCES? Instead of just pulling
things out of your ass?

What is this obsession of proof you have? Are you a lawyer or something?

No, just someone who values FACTS and the truth and doesn't like ****wits
that SPECULATE and then state that as fact.

Stop ****ing shouting. Again, I don't need proof of what everyone tells me. I decide for myself if it's believable.

Sure, because you're a ****wit that listens to Rod who has a reputation
for BS and you dismiss the need for any reference. The voltage change
you claim you saw was due to fairies from Mars. See how that works?




I said if it's so, then show us the references.

You're the opposite of a religious nut, you need everything proved. Grow up.

Go **** yourself. It's quite obvious you're beyond clueless.

You have not explained how my car behaves, Rod has. You lose.

A fairy from Mars caused the change you saw. No need for references.
Now I've explained it too. See how that works?

I can tell when someone is making **** up. Unfortunately 50% of the population can't so still believes in god.

Sure you can, ROFL.





I gave you a long list of things Rod "explained" here, all BS and wrong..

I'm not interested in your stalking.

So, why are you still here? Rod gave you his BS answer, you accepted it.





And I said if they do it, I doubt they do it via using
the resistance of the battery cable, which is what Rod claimed.

Why do you doubt this? It's the easiest thing to do. What voltage drop do you think you can get off one of those cables, considering the high amperages involved?

Why are you adamant about this, when you have ZERO to show that it's
done? There are obvious reasons why it;s not likely. Try Ohms's Law.

Ohm's law (which I've just spelled correctly, there is no Mr Ohms) is precisely why it works. If you connect a 12V source at one end of a thick cable, and run a 50 amp load at the other end, you'll only get 11.5V at the other end. I know, I've installed 6kW car stereos. Voltage drop is a problem, especially on the peak of the amp's consumption with music which has loud beats.

Again, one more time, do the numbers for a battery cable, you might
learn something, but in your case, it's highly doubtful.

I have a cheap multimeter here that can detect 1mV....

Again, if you just applied Ohm's LAw, you'd see that resolution isn't
sufficient, ****wit. And even if it was, how logical is it to try
to measure down to a milivolt in a car? A car where loads are constantly
switching? When either you or Rod have a reference that says auto
manufacturers use the battery cable resistance to measure voltage,
let us know. Until then, **** off. BTW, still can't trim posts?