On 4/6/2019 11:21 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2019 11:10 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, April 6, 2019 at 11:58:40 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2019 9:33 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, April 6, 2019 at 9:29:08 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 4/1/2019 10:03 AM, Leon wrote:
On 3/29/2019 7:05 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I'm still trying to learn things about my planer....

I need to plane some poplar down by no more than 1/32". However, the
boards
are already cut to length and have tenons on the ends. (Don't ask)

I really want to avoid any snipe on these boards so I'm thinking
of using
the Sacrificial Board technique. Here's my idea:

Cut a groove in the sacrificial board, insert the tenons in the
groove, and
run it all through the planer.Â* With the setup shown below, I can
easily run
4 boards through at one time. (I'm only showing 2 in this
example) My
only
concern is that the sacrificial board(s) will be planed cross grain.

https://i.imgur.com/s3bxz1G.jpg

Â*Â* From a safety perspective, is there any reason I shouldn't try
this?

Yes, I know I could do the same thing with a sacrificial board
running
with the grain, but I'm sure this question will start an interesting
discussion, as usual.


Typically snipe happens because of the play in the cutter head.
Or the
material is not PERFECTLY flat.
I always lifted the board a bit as it entered the planerÂ* and
again on
the out feed side I lifted the end of the board as the material
exited
the planer.
Typically, it happens because of the feed rollers.Â* Only one roller
apples pressure at the beginning and end of the cut, creating uneven
pressure.Â* You can tell because the snipe is always the length of the
distance of the in feed/out feed rollers from the blades. Lifting the
work piece at the beginning and end of cut tends to offset this
somewhat.

To eliminate the problem is difficult, and best done by allowing
room to
cut off the sniped ends.Â* If that is a problem, then run sacrificial
boards. If that is a problem, then cutting at an angle can reduce the
length of the snipe as the board will be supported a bit more through
the feed rollers.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

Thanks for jumping in so late and repeating everything that has
already been cover in this
thread. In terms of a synopsis, it's not bad.


FWIW I have never ever experienced snipe as badly or in the
quantity/length as Jack indicated.

If the cutter head pivots, and the cheaper the unit the worse the pivot,
you get snipe.Â* As the wood goes under the in feed roller the cutter
head pivots higher in the front lower in the back, and NOT EVENLY.Â* This
results in the the cutter cutting deeper.
I lift the work as it goes in to keep the end of the board low until the
cutter begins to cut. Then on the opposite end I lift slightly again as
the board is near the end of the cutting operation.

Many manufacturers include a cutter head lock to help.

So on my Delta 15" stationary planer I have rollers on the bed of the
planer too.Â* One on each side of the cut.

The in feed pulls the work into the planer and then the work rides up on
the roller.Â* This essentially angles the work higher on the in feed end
in relation to the other end of the board.Â* Then the cutter cuts deeper,
snipe, until the work travels far enough be pushed down on to the lower
rollers and under the out feed roller.

On the opposite end the reverse happens, but left alone through the
whole process I only get/got snipe on the very ends of the boards and
never over about 3/4" in length.

What would help?Â* A long in feed and out feed table that is higher on
the outer ends than at the planer end.

And just another observation, the lighter weight and shorter the
material the less of a problem I have with snipe.Â* On longer and or
heavier boards the weight of the board has more leverage than the in
feed rollers and or out feed rollersÂ* can over come.

The snipe on my Wen bench top is closer to what Jack describes. Somewhere
in the 2" range, both ends. Many (most?) youtube videos also use that 2"
length when they discuss snipe. e.g. "If you are OK with wasting wood,
plane boards that are about 4" longer than you need and cut off the snipe
when you are done."

I suspect that neither of your planers are the low-end planers that are
often the culprits. They don't typically have rollers in the bed or heads
that lock. Lucky you. ;-)


The first planer was a bench top.Â* It was literally the first of its
kind, a Ryobi AP-10.Â* It was a well made bench top planer.

Still both would or will snipe my boards unless I lift the opposite end
from the planer when initial feeding or ending the cut.Â* Then I pretty
much see nothing.Â* You do not have to lift much, just an inch or so.
Enough to make the opposite end of the board higher than the cutter.

And if making multiple passes, I mostly only do this on the last passes.


And FWIW it is mostly a technique you learn over time.